Jump to content
Steve19

Battery Switch Problems

Recommended Posts

2016 R200

Coming yesterday cruising along on plane and the everything shut down! Tried going to battery two, nothing.  The switch felt loose so I checked inside the console .  The back of the battery switch was cracked all the way around and was loose. I got it to hold together and made it the dock.  Inspecting it at home the whole back of the switch fell off in my hand (cables still attached)  I obivousijy need a new switch.  Has anyone replaced a switch?  Is it something I can do or do I need  mechanic?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I may be mistaken, but I think at 2016 is still under warranty and the dealer should fix. From Robalo's facebook page:

Robalo's 5 Year Premiere Protection Component Warranty Promotion is going on now as well as Yamaha's 5 Year Engine Warranty. There's never been a better time to buy your brand new Robalo. Act fast.

As for doing it yourself, I removed my power panel due to a bad circuit breaker. After having worked on electronics for 30 years, the only difficulty was in not having double jointed elbows to get to parts of it easier. I think if you do your own car maintenance or house wiring it wouldn't be too hard to do. Just remember to label or mark cables so you know where they go back (unhook battery cables first!). Also, if it was me having to change it, I'd probably opt for a different switch manufacturer ( Blue Seas ). I think the Amazon Blue Seas switch is probably the right one, but check first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine did basically the same thing.  Since my dealer is about 75 miles away, I went to West Marine and picked up another switch.  Install was pretty straight forward and it took about 30 minutes at most.  As it was installed, it looked like there was quite a bit of tension on the housing which could have caused the breakage.  I used a couple of larger washers as backing plates for the screws that holds everything in place.  No issues since then.  Don't remember the exact price, but best I can recall it was about $30 to $40 for the switch.

 

Quote

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies.  I am far from my home dealer (in the Keys). Found a dealer down here but had no way to get the boat there. (Back on the rack at the house rental). Service department was familiar with the problem, must be a common one.  It would have been covered if I could get the boat to them and would have to wait.  I decided to try and fix it myself they had the switch n stock.  After getting the old switch apart ( took pictures of he wiring first) the new switch was slightly bigger so had to ream out the hole in the template in the console .  After a lot of filing, it fit and got everything back together, all seems good.  I will test it out today while chasing Yellowtails!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After reading about the Broken Battery Switch syndrome in this discussion and also here, I recently discovered the battery switch on our 2013 R180 fractured while stored for the winter in our warmed garage.

There was sufficient slack in the battery cables to move the electrical panel away from the bulkhead beneath the starboard stern jump seat...

37442182565_6d470372e6_o.jpg

 

...however, tension from the shorter cable on the panel may have contributed to the switch's failing...

39837673805_31a9be7681_o.jpg

 

Because our R180 is beyond Robalo's warranty period, I reviewed the switch manufacturer's website and found a surprising guarantee : "Blue Sea Systems stands behind its products for as long as you own them. Blue Sea Systems will replace or issue a credit for any of its products found to be defective in materials or manufacture."

After e-mailing Blue Sea Customer Service (conductor@bluesea.com) the basics of my R180 ownership and a photo of the failed M-Series dual battery switch, Blue Sea sent me a free replacement switch, which has been redesigned & significantly improved to avoid the fracturing many of us have experienced...

38922490810_6cbfb93cf0_b.jpg

 

The improved switches bear a sticker with the word "Revised"...

40689634842_f0da535466_o.jpg

 

Blue Sea also offers this advice on installation of their revised M-Series switch...

m-Series Battery Switch Installation Tips

  1. Proper terminal stud torque: 120 Inch pounds max. Over torqueing will damage internal assemble bosses and lead to future failure.                          
  2. Wire and cable support: The wires and cables attached to the M-Switch must be supported. The case cannot support multiple large cables and may fail if cables are left hanging from the terminal studs. ABYC recommends support every 18 inches max. We recommend no strain from cables, either hanging or from tight radiuses, be allowed to exert force on the back case of the switch.
  3. Flat mounting surface: Insure mounting surface is flat. Mounting on a curved or irregular surface may distort the case when tightening fasteners.

 

If your Robalo was originally fitted with a Blue Sea battery switch and it suffers the Broken Battery Switch syndrome outside Robalo's warranty period -- or if your dealer is too distant to return to -- then it's worthwhile to contact Blue Sea Customer Service (conductor@bluesea.com) for a free & improved replacement switch.

If you've already paid for a replacement battery switch because of timing or you not knowing about Blue Sea's guarantee, then it's worthwhile to contact Blue Sea Customer Service (conductor@bluesea.com) for a possible reimbursement.

Post-repair edit:

On our 2013 R180, the screws used to assemble the fractured switch to the electrical panel faceplate were #8-32 flat head machine screws, while the original and revised switches are designed for #10 machine screws. Use of the undersized #8's leaves the nylon-inserted nuts freewheeling and sitting too low to get a wrench onto.

If you also experience this, remove the rubber boots from the front of the circuit breakers and push them out the back of the electrical panel faceplate. This frees you to remove the electrical panel from within the starboard jump seat compartment and able to remove the undersized screws above deck.

Four #10-32 x 1 1/4 machine screws and nylon-inserted nuts make installing the revised switch much easier, even though the space for reattaching the battery cables is tight.

The project can be DIY if you're familiar with using 11/16 & 9/16 wrenches & sockets and a phillips screwdriver.

And finally, a throwable cushion on the deck makes kneeling down much more comfortable.

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much!  This Just happened to me last night.  I've already bought the replacement part from west marine.  I'll contact Blue Sea for reimbursement. 

Also your description of the  nuts that are hard to get a wrench onto is right on-.  These are the circled ones below right?  I struggled to get 2 of them off last night (after I had to be towed to the Dock).   They just spun when using the Philips head and I couldn't  get a good grip on them with Pliers or anything. 

 

image.png.226408a62493114224e772914507e329.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×