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Kman

Adding Batteries and Other Stuff to an R180. Weight Issues?

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Hey.  New guy here.

I just bought a 2013 R180/F115 with 102 freshwater hours on it.  I saltwater boat in So Cal, so the first thing I need to do is convert this single battery boat to dual—not counting trolling motor batteries.  The manual (complete with schematics) came with the boat.  Looks like a Blue Seas 6007 4-position mini switch is a drop in replacement for the on/off switch that is in there now. New switch, add a second battery cable,  ACR and a negative distribution point and I should be good to go in the stern. Of course I will need to add a House fuse block in the console along with feed wiring and a circuit breaker.

Now about adding the batteries.  I fish offshore during the season and fish inshore all year.  I use a lot of electronics, so I usually outfit my boats with a pair of group 31 batteries.  I also plan on overnighting on this boat under the mooring cover.  So there’s 150 pounds in the starboard battery compartment.

I can’t live without a GPS enabled and networked trolling motor, so I could possibly add two more 31s in the port compartment—or in the center console if weight distribution becomes an issue.

Which brings me to the question:  Have any of you loaded up the stern of a R180 with 300# of batteries?  How will that affect planing? Any issues with scuppers? I do not currently have trim tabs. Adding the House and trolling motor batts to the console floor is always an option.

Next issue is a secondary bilge pump with high water alarm, and a LED indicator to tell me when the primary bilge activates. Anyone know where to get matching chrome thru hulls?

Lastly (for now lol) I had to toss those vertical rod holders on the console.  They just don’t work for my kind of fishing.  I’m putting in 6 vertical holders on each side of the console.  So now I have 8 holes to patch where the old rod holders were attached.  Be nice to do it right.  How do you color match a 2013 R180?

Thanks.

PS. That transom area is a total PITA to work in.  Clearly, the hull was plumbed and wired before the liner was mated to the hull. You need to be an octopus to work back there. Here is the single battery panel, awaiting the drop-in dual battery switch.

 

 

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I have a 2016 R180 with a 80lb thrust Minn Kota mounted on the front. Also switched to a dual engine battery setup but the dealer installed the new switch and wiring as part of the deal so I cant help you with that. Does look like a straight swap out. The two engine batteries are on the starboard side while the two group 37 trolling batteries on both on the port side, both accessible from the rear seat areas. It does make the boat a little more butt heavy. Trim tabs would be a nice addition but are not absolutely necessary. The weight of the trolling motor on the bow partially offsets the additional weight in the back but not entirely. You can compensate by moving people and gear around. The 115 engine is not a brute so it will cost you 1 mph or so on the top end to add the additional weight. Other than that, the boat handles it pretty well.

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2 hours ago, SPate said:

I have a 2016 R180 with a 80lb thrust Minn Kota mounted on the front. Also switched to a dual engine battery setup but the dealer installed the new switch and wiring as part of the deal so I cant help you with that. Does look like a straight swap out. The two engine batteries are on the starboard side while the two group 37 trolling batteries on both on the port side, both accessible from the rear seat areas. It does make the boat a little more butt heavy. Trim tabs would be a nice addition but are not absolutely necessary. The weight of the trolling motor on the bow partially offsets the additional weight in the back but not entirely. You can compensate by moving people and gear around. The 115 engine is not a brute so it will cost you 1 mph or so on the top end to add the additional weight. Other than that, the boat handles it pretty well.

Thanks for the reply.

A few questions:

What length shaft is your trolling motor?  Does its prop ever come out of the water in chop?  You fishing fresh or saltwater?

What main engine prop are you running, and what RPM are you getting at WOT? I bought this boat in Nevada, where everything is high and hot, so I am probably underpropped on the ocean.

Thanks again

 

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There's probably room under the port side jump seat for a second engine battery. If that second battery is for emergency starting only, you could come off the 12V battery of your trolling battery back, and go through a Blue Sea dual circuit battery switch for emergency starting. That's what I did on my Seaark to conserve weight. ,With the trolling batteries under the console, it would be easy to mount a switch and run the cables back to the start battery. If you really want the security of a second starting battery, I would look at putting one on each side. At any rate, and as mentioned above, the 115 is not a power house and if you add another battery in the back and have people in the jump seats, it's going to struggle so I would get as much weight as possible mid-ship.

Right now our 180 is only a play boat for kneeboarding and tubing, but the wife is making noise about wanting to rig it out for fishing so I may be facing these same issues in the near future.

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2 hours ago, haz said:

For repairing rod holder screw holes: Link to Robalo Arctic White gel coat patch paste repair kit on iboat.com,

Good luck!

I saw that when checking out gel coat patches.  The product is for 2002-2011 model year Robalos.  Mine is a 2013.  Is the color still the same?

Has anyone put something like this tackle center below in their consoles? Were you able to match colors?

Thanks

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The Spectrum Color repair kit was a color match on the hull of our 2013 R180...

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Good luck!

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23 hours ago, Kman said:

Thanks for the reply.

A few questions:

What length shaft is your trolling motor?  Does its prop ever come out of the water in chop?  You fishing fresh or saltwater?

What main engine prop are you running, and what RPM are you getting at WOT? I bought this boat in Nevada, where everything is high and hot, so I am probably underpropped on the ocean.

Thanks again

 

Here is what I am running - I have a Minn Kota Terova 80lb thrust with a 60" shaft. The Terova is a fresh water motor as I use the boat exclusively on a fresh water river. Had no issues with the prop coming out but not really ocean conditions here even though I am on the St. Lawrence and it does get rough on occasions. It's a pretty long motor but I think the only other option is a 72" which would sit really long when stored in the down position. I fish up front when using it because that's where I fish and it serves to put more bow in the water. Can't speak to your wave conditions but if I fished this boat back home in florida on the gulf side, it would be fine with a 60" but I would go for the Riptide model as that is for salt.As far as props go, I have a Solas Saturn (new model)13.5"diameter by 15" pitch stainless prop. I turn it 6,000 to 6,100 rpm with two people, near full of gas and at sea level. With the 115 Yamaha, this is right where you want to be rpm-wise or the engine will struggle to get on plane. I would buy this prop again as it performs well and is much less than the Yamaha props. The weight of the batteries and motor will rob about 100 rpm from you so my rpm numbers are with the trolling motor and batteries. I have two group 27 batteries that will run the motor at least 10 hours. If you want to be weight conscious you can go for the AGM versus the wet batteries as they produce more power in a smaller package. Hope that helps.

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Nice color match!  I just ordered some.

SPate:  Thank you for the info.  The prop on there currently is a Power Tech stainless 13.25  X 15. I also have the original aluminum Yamaha 13.5 X 19. I need to get some hours on the boat to see how she does before I decide on battery size and placement.  I’m encouraged you get 10 hours use out of a pair of group 27s, though I take it that is not non stop usage.

Thanks

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Hey.  I’m going to supplement that PWC 500 GPH bilge pump with a 3700 GPH one tied into a high water alarm.  Anyone know where I can find a 1 1/2” chrome (or polished stainless) thru hull that matches what the boat has now? 

Thanks.

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15 hours ago, Bob Landry said:

You can download a parts list PDF for any Robalo. Get your dealer to order one. You may pay a little more, but it will match.

Thanks.  I’ll give it another try.  The first attempt at getting parts didn’t go so well. It was a bureaucratic nightmare.  Picture the DMV requesting info and ordering from the VA. I finally gave up.  They were more interested in selling me R200s at discounted prices that were sitting on their lot.

I have another dealer in the area.  Maybe they want my parts business. I would like a footrest for my console.

 At the end of the day though, it’s more important for me to have a large capacity, secondary bilge pump than a perfectly matching thru hull. Come to think of it, I’m going to upsize the existing bilge pump to something more appropriate for safe ocean fishing, so having the bilge thru hulls match will be easy. I’m not looking forward to doing the work though, as I can just blindly touch the hull with my fingertips as I lay across the splash well, reaching one arm into the hatch.  You need to be a laparoscopic surgeon to work down there lol.

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