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FullThrottle

R207 water drainage

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I noticed too much water is getting into the bilge on my R207. Found out the storage areas under the chairs drain directly into the bilge (no simple way to redesign that) and that water is leaking into the center storage due to the lack of gaskets around the hinges and the latch (see picture). I plan to put some gasket tape there (2 inch wide by 1/4 thick). Figured I'd ask what others have done before trying the tape.

Leaks.jpg

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My boat is still covered so I can't go out to look at it but I'm pretty sure on my boat the two storage areas under the seats are meant to be coolers for either fish or drinks and have drains out the side. The recessed rim around the middle storage hatch on my boat has a gasket around it and in the back corner there is a drain which goes overboard. By the way, I can't open your picture.

Check something else, the floor filler piece over the fuel tank. The boat I saw at the dealer when I ordered mine had black caulk filling the huge gap around the perimeter. Mine had nothing which lets every drop of water that gets on the floor to go right down into the bilge. The Dealer caulked it but did a half ass (and that's not half fast) job and it still leaks. I am going to take it all out and caulk it myself once the weather warms up.

Check yours.

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Hopefully you'll be able to see it this time. Don't know why it failed before. Anyway, I called the dealer about the boxes dumping into the bilge. They tested their new 2015 R207 (mine is a 2014) and it goes directly into the bilge too. They said they contacted Robalo and were told it is designed to go into the bilge (hard to believe, but they insist that is correct.

Leaks_zpsni67pya5.jpg

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Thanks for the info on the 2014 R207. I just purchased one, it’s still at the dealer, But I have been wondering about how the water drains from the under seat coolers. At the Boat show the Robalo rep insisted they drain overboard. I guess in a way he is correct… after they go through the bilge.

I will check my center hatch and the fuel tank cover when I get the boat home. It will be a few weeks as I still have snow in the yard.

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Let me know how thing go. We had frost this morning, but 70 now and 80 tomorrow. Got out to clean the yard and cut the grass after stopping by West Marine for more boat stuff.

I put foam tape on the storage hatch and it reduced leakage by 90-95%. Also, the dealer let me know Robalo is sending D foam and a replacement seat for one that was damaged before I got the boat. So, very happy with Robalo warranty handling.

Now that I'm getting the water under control (spoiled by my previous boat. Probably 2 gallons of water total in the bilge over 10 years on the water) I've been enjoying the boat and waiting for fish to arrive (water still too cold). Had it out in 2-3 foot waves with whitecaps and after getting the speed and trim set correctly it was a pretty good ride. Due to the boat being 2 feet more narrow than my old boat, on drift in the waves it was better.

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I'm jealous!!!! I'm up here at the Head of the Bay at Turkey Point. The water temperature is only 42 degrees, so it will be a few more weeks until I can get out. Up here we can't keep Strippers until early June. At least we have "Catch-n-Release". That is if the water ever warms up. A few weeks ago the local paper had an article about how the Coast Guard has suspended all boating in the Upper Bay until April 15th because of all the ice. I think it is all gone now but I haven't seen anything about letting us out.

Did you change out the other seat yet?

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Not yet. My wife was supposed to go out with me today, but she put it off since it was so cool this morning and she had afternoon plans. Now that I have both the raised and original seat, I can't imagine she won't want it raised. But, it's her call. Probably be another week before she can get on the boat since school will be out.

I put 4200 around all the seat mounting screws after finding out the there is wood under the fiberglass where the seats are mounted. The original screws weren't caulked, but on my old boat several stainless screws rusted and stained the fiberglass on the deck fish box. Turns out the hatch over the fish box had wood sealed with fiberglass and once the wood gets wet it doesn't dry well and the screws rust.

Figured I'd try and get ahead of that problem with this boat. Anyway, I've come to believe all screws should be caulked in a boat, just not with 5200 if you ever think you might need to remove the screw. 4200 or other Marine Caulk/Sealant will do.

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Back in 2013 I posted pictures and an explanation as to how I raised my seats and switch them so the tension knob is in the aisle so you can get your hand around it. To switch them, you have to raise the seat up 1 1/2" so you can still rotate the seats 180 degrees. I only raised them 1 1/2" but if you can find aluminum extrusion higher, the sky is the limit.

Maybe FullThrottle can help with how he found my posting. I forget what I callrd it.

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Very nice, Thanks for the info.. I have not even pick up the boat yet and I think this is a modification I may make right from the start..

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I see you didn't switch the seats from side to side to get the tension knobs out in the open. That was the main reason for me raising the seats.

Wally

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Still waiting for wife to get on the boat and decide on raising the port seat. Additionally, raising the helm seat works well without switching seats - keeps me from busting knuckles when moving the seat (did that once too often), allows me to open the storage hatch under the seat a little better, and gives me a slightly better view.

If Judy decides she wants her seat raised, and I can't imagine she won't, I'll switch them then. However, just having clear access to the knob is worth the effort. I tend to move the seat forward and backward once or twice a trip due to habits from the old boat. That may change with time as this boat is much easier to handle at all speeds.

I also added a " maneuvering knob " to the steering wheel to aid in docking. This boat takes a lot of turning to get from full port to full starboard and since the boat is dry stored it was essential to be able to spin the wheel when backing into the slip. With two engines on the old boat docking was a piece of cake and I measured good docking in inches, but with a single engine it takes a bit more work to pull it in parallel and within reach of the dock. The knob helps a lot. I find now that I have the knob, I use it much more than I expected I would.

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Which knob did you put on the wheel? I have seen a few but never got one

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I picked it up off Amazon (Amarine-made Aisi 316 Stainless Steel Marine Sport Boat Steering Wheel Knob with Plastic Cap) http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-Stainless-Steering-Plastic-Maneuvering/dp/B00FQ9O5AQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1428670636&sr=1-1&keywords=Amarine-made+Aisi+316

I will tell you I had to do some metal "forming" to get it to fit the wheel properly. It was not as simple to install as I'd hoped, but after finally getting it on correctly I'm very happy with it.

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