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Found 3 results

  1. Hey. New guy here. I just bought a 2013 R180/F115 with 102 freshwater hours on it. I saltwater boat in So Cal, so the first thing I need to do is convert this single battery boat to dual—not counting trolling motor batteries. The manual (complete with schematics) came with the boat. Looks like a Blue Seas 6007 4-position mini switch is a drop in replacement for the on/off switch that is in there now. New switch, add a second battery cable, ACR and a negative distribution point and I should be good to go in the stern. Of course I will need to add a House fuse block in the console along with feed wiring and a circuit breaker. Now about adding the batteries. I fish offshore during the season and fish inshore all year. I use a lot of electronics, so I usually outfit my boats with a pair of group 31 batteries. I also plan on overnighting on this boat under the mooring cover. So there’s 150 pounds in the starboard battery compartment. I can’t live without a GPS enabled and networked trolling motor, so I could possibly add two more 31s in the port compartment—or in the center console if weight distribution becomes an issue. Which brings me to the question: Have any of you loaded up the stern of a R180 with 300# of batteries? How will that affect planing? Any issues with scuppers? I do not currently have trim tabs. Adding the House and trolling motor batts to the console floor is always an option. Next issue is a secondary bilge pump with high water alarm, and a LED indicator to tell me when the primary bilge activates. Anyone know where to get matching chrome thru hulls? Lastly (for now lol) I had to toss those vertical rod holders on the console. They just don’t work for my kind of fishing. I’m putting in 6 vertical holders on each side of the console. So now I have 8 holes to patch where the old rod holders were attached. Be nice to do it right. How do you color match a 2013 R180? Thanks. PS. That transom area is a total PITA to work in. Clearly, the hull was plumbed and wired before the liner was mated to the hull. You need to be an octopus to work back there. Here is the single battery panel, awaiting the drop-in dual battery switch.
  2. I have a 2015 dual console and all of a sudden my battery switch doesn't work -- the dial just spins! Battery is stuck "on" and can't shut it off unless I disconnect the cables. Anyone have a similar problem? Know how to fix?
  3. Hello All - Just took possession of a new 2016 R247. Love the boat, but have a few questions. Most importantly, the boat has twin ETEC G2 150 HOs, two batteries and two battery switches with 1, 2, both and off positions. There is a battery for the starboard motor (which also appears to double as the house battery) and one for the port. For some unexplained reason, the manual doesn't address this setup (some versions of the manual only describe a single with two switches, while others describe twin motors with 3 battery switches). The dealer, who I really like and has been helpful, suggested starting and operating both motors with both batteries in the "Both" or parallel positions. I don't think this is correct for a variety of reasons. After doing some research, it appears to me that I would start and run the starboard motor with the starboard switch in the "1" position (this would also allow the starboard motor to charge the starboard battery and run the house off the starboard battery) and start and run the port motor with the port switch in the "2" position (this would allow the port motor to charge the port battery). In the event either battery were to run low, I assume I could start that motor with the other battery and then switch back to the original battery for charging purposes, or use the "both" setting to start that motor using the batteries in parallel. Any help you can provide or thoughts on the arrangement would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!