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I purchased a Robalo 22 Caymen from Bob Hewes in Miami, FL Last November. Since I had the boat I have had multiple issues including almost sinking. I have already filed one warranty claim and I am in the process of filing another warranty claim now. My first claim had to do with shotty workmanship on the bait wells and seals around the compartments. The hose came off in mid travel and filled the inner compartment with water. I just made it back to my dock before sinking. The warranty covered the repairs but no one would guarantee or tell me what will happen to my boat when the salt water that filled the inner compartment starts to corrode the wires. Now, a few months later I have a blister growing on the side of the boat. This boat is still less than 1 year old. I was sent to a boat repair shop that said they can fix the issue but they made it clear that within 2 years the coloring on the spot will not match the rest of the hull color. The worst part is the mechanics told me that I bought a lemon of a boat and that they have already worked on similar issues with other Caymens. What happened to Robalo? I paid more for a Robalo boat because I thought we were buying a quality name. This is an absolute nightmare--I am now trying to have my dealership exchange the hull. Unfortunately, I don't think Bob Hewes is very responsive. My next stop will be blasting these issues all over Social Media and I plan on going to the Fl. State Attorney.
Kman posted a topic in Boat TalkHey. New guy here. I just bought a 2013 R180/F115 with 102 freshwater hours on it. I saltwater boat in So Cal, so the first thing I need to do is convert this single battery boat to dual—not counting trolling motor batteries. The manual (complete with schematics) came with the boat. Looks like a Blue Seas 6007 4-position mini switch is a drop in replacement for the on/off switch that is in there now. New switch, add a second battery cable, ACR and a negative distribution point and I should be good to go in the stern. Of course I will need to add a House fuse block in the console along with feed wiring and a circuit breaker. Now about adding the batteries. I fish offshore during the season and fish inshore all year. I use a lot of electronics, so I usually outfit my boats with a pair of group 31 batteries. I also plan on overnighting on this boat under the mooring cover. So there’s 150 pounds in the starboard battery compartment. I can’t live without a GPS enabled and networked trolling motor, so I could possibly add two more 31s in the port compartment—or in the center console if weight distribution becomes an issue. Which brings me to the question: Have any of you loaded up the stern of a R180 with 300# of batteries? How will that affect planing? Any issues with scuppers? I do not currently have trim tabs. Adding the House and trolling motor batts to the console floor is always an option. Next issue is a secondary bilge pump with high water alarm, and a LED indicator to tell me when the primary bilge activates. Anyone know where to get matching chrome thru hulls? Lastly (for now lol) I had to toss those vertical rod holders on the console. They just don’t work for my kind of fishing. I’m putting in 6 vertical holders on each side of the console. So now I have 8 holes to patch where the old rod holders were attached. Be nice to do it right. How do you color match a 2013 R180? Thanks. PS. That transom area is a total PITA to work in. Clearly, the hull was plumbed and wired before the liner was mated to the hull. You need to be an octopus to work back there. Here is the single battery panel, awaiting the drop-in dual battery switch.
Hello All - Just took possession of a new 2016 R247. Love the boat, but have a few questions. Most importantly, the boat has twin ETEC G2 150 HOs, two batteries and two battery switches with 1, 2, both and off positions. There is a battery for the starboard motor (which also appears to double as the house battery) and one for the port. For some unexplained reason, the manual doesn't address this setup (some versions of the manual only describe a single with two switches, while others describe twin motors with 3 battery switches). The dealer, who I really like and has been helpful, suggested starting and operating both motors with both batteries in the "Both" or parallel positions. I don't think this is correct for a variety of reasons. After doing some research, it appears to me that I would start and run the starboard motor with the starboard switch in the "1" position (this would also allow the starboard motor to charge the starboard battery and run the house off the starboard battery) and start and run the port motor with the port switch in the "2" position (this would allow the port motor to charge the port battery). In the event either battery were to run low, I assume I could start that motor with the other battery and then switch back to the original battery for charging purposes, or use the "both" setting to start that motor using the batteries in parallel. Any help you can provide or thoughts on the arrangement would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!