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Showing results for tags 'battery switch'.
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Kman posted a topic in Boat TalkHey. New guy here. I just bought a 2013 R180/F115 with 102 freshwater hours on it. I saltwater boat in So Cal, so the first thing I need to do is convert this single battery boat to dual—not counting trolling motor batteries. The manual (complete with schematics) came with the boat. Looks like a Blue Seas 6007 4-position mini switch is a drop in replacement for the on/off switch that is in there now. New switch, add a second battery cable, ACR and a negative distribution point and I should be good to go in the stern. Of course I will need to add a House fuse block in the console along with feed wiring and a circuit breaker. Now about adding the batteries. I fish offshore during the season and fish inshore all year. I use a lot of electronics, so I usually outfit my boats with a pair of group 31 batteries. I also plan on overnighting on this boat under the mooring cover. So there’s 150 pounds in the starboard battery compartment. I can’t live without a GPS enabled and networked trolling motor, so I could possibly add two more 31s in the port compartment—or in the center console if weight distribution becomes an issue. Which brings me to the question: Have any of you loaded up the stern of a R180 with 300# of batteries? How will that affect planing? Any issues with scuppers? I do not currently have trim tabs. Adding the House and trolling motor batts to the console floor is always an option. Next issue is a secondary bilge pump with high water alarm, and a LED indicator to tell me when the primary bilge activates. Anyone know where to get matching chrome thru hulls? Lastly (for now lol) I had to toss those vertical rod holders on the console. They just don’t work for my kind of fishing. I’m putting in 6 vertical holders on each side of the console. So now I have 8 holes to patch where the old rod holders were attached. Be nice to do it right. How do you color match a 2013 R180? Thanks. PS. That transom area is a total PITA to work in. Clearly, the hull was plumbed and wired before the liner was mated to the hull. You need to be an octopus to work back there. Here is the single battery panel, awaiting the drop-in dual battery switch.
In the "O" position I have no power. If I turn directly to "1" (counterclockwise), Nothing works. If I turn clockwise through "2" and "1&2" to "1", then my marine radio, GPS, audio etc work. Motor only runs and trim change in "2" or "1&2". If I ride out to a spot and turn off the motor and change the battery switch to "1", a few times everything has gone dead.Once when the GPS and radio were on, I turned on the livewell and that killed everything. Both batteries are fully charged. The charger on board has a green light on Batt2(ENG) and no light on Batt1. no changes occur when I plug it in at home. While trouble shooting, I disconnected the port battery and the engine would not start, no trim power. I thought the port battery was "house" power and the starboard battery was the engine battery. I am really confused on this switch and how it is wired to function. Any comments appreciated
JimKav posted a topic in Boat TalkI have a 2014 R207 with factory installed dual batteries and have a question on the battery switch. In the Owner’s manual page 3-2 has the following: If the switch is in the: “OFF” position then only Bilge pump, CO detector and Stereo memory has power. “#1” Position uses only number 1 battery “#2” Position uses only number 2 battery “ALL” Position uses both batteries It continues on to say that: The “#1” position will use battery 1 power but will charge both batteries when engine is running. The “#2” position uses battery 2 they recommend this setting for using power when the engine is not running. The “All” position they don’t recommend using at all.. So…. Yesterday I went to the marina lowered and started the engine with the battery switch in the “OFF” position. ( I forgot to turn it on) Now I am very confused on what the battery switch is doing? I did check and with the switch in the off position none of the other things worked like the lights, GPS, horn etc.. So my questions are: Does anyone else have this situation? Is the battery charging if the engine is running and the switch is set to “OFF”? Most importantly how do I check this all out? Thanks for your help… Jim K..