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Found 4 results

  1. I have a 2014 R207 with factory installed dual batteries and have a question on the battery switch. In the Owner’s manual page 3-2 has the following: If the switch is in the: “OFF” position then only Bilge pump, CO detector and Stereo memory has power. “#1” Position uses only number 1 battery “#2” Position uses only number 2 battery “ALL” Position uses both batteries It continues on to say that: The “#1” position will use battery 1 power but will charge both batteries when engine is running. The “#2” position uses battery 2 they recommend this setting for using power when the engine i
  2. Does any vary change the battery Switch BEP. Those get broken every 150 hours. Any recommendation for one to fit the switch box??
  3. Hey. New guy here. I just bought a 2013 R180/F115 with 102 freshwater hours on it. I saltwater boat in So Cal, so the first thing I need to do is convert this single battery boat to dual—not counting trolling motor batteries. The manual (complete with schematics) came with the boat. Looks like a Blue Seas 6007 4-position mini switch is a drop in replacement for the on/off switch that is in there now. New switch, add a second battery cable, ACR and a negative distribution point and I should be good to go in the stern. Of course I will need to add a House fuse block in the console alon
  4. In the "O" position I have no power. If I turn directly to "1" (counterclockwise), Nothing works. If I turn clockwise through "2" and "1&2" to "1", then my marine radio, GPS, audio etc work. Motor only runs and trim change in "2" or "1&2". If I ride out to a spot and turn off the motor and change the battery switch to "1", a few times everything has gone dead.Once when the GPS and radio were on, I turned on the livewell and that killed everything. Both batteries are fully charged. The charger on board has a green light on Batt2(ENG) and no light on Batt1
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