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kingrex

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About kingrex

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  1. kingrex

    R180 f150 Engine Height

    Got the Rev 4. My motor tops out at 5300 rpm. Won't go higher. 2013 R180 with a Yamaha 150. Grip is way better than the Yamaha 3 blade. Steering is harder with the Rev 4. At low speeds it is very reactive. Takes more attention. The 3 blade Yamaha was very easy to steer. Rattled occasionally. The Rev 4 has a very slight rattle at low rpm. Not enough to matter. Flowtorq 4 hub. At 4200 RPM I'm around 32 mph Maybe 33. At 5300 RPM I am about 39. I don't remember breaking 40. In turns trimmed up, the Rev 4 sticks well. The Yamaha would cavitate and loose grip right away. Rev 4 will let me stay on plane at 3200 rpm. At 3400 rpm its pretty solid on plane. Fuel millage is about 3.8 MPG from 3600 rpm to 4200 RPM. Maybe 3.4 or 3.5 at 4200. Best MPG would just hit 4 with all just right. At 1000 rpm and about 7 mph it was getting about 6 mpg.
  2. kingrex

    NMEA 2000 Upgrade for Yamaha?

    Cant see without pix. I have not seem nema with taped splices. The engine connection is to a square connector with 2 wires. the nema cable is round. All splices are with T style connectors. If your round gauges have red letters they are not nema. White letters could be. Look online at nmea cable and connectors. Is that what you have. They have a particular connector to devices. If the connector is different it's not nema 2000. My nema connector was burried down deep in the motor. Look harder,
  3. kingrex

    T-Top removal

    I have noted items such as hand rails have one washer and nut. The other 2 are screws. The leaning post is all screws. A dealer told me the TTop option comes with additional backing under the deck for mounting hardware to attach too. I was interested in an aftermarket so I have stuck my head in there alot. There is a lip you can get under to some degree. A bolt and washer could go there. There is also a solid frame that the top is gluing down onto. No bolts would go there. They would have to be screws. Go back to your dealer, climb in the cc and look under the edge. I'm curious myself. I want to install an aftermarket and wonder how they really did it.
  4. kingrex

    R180 f150 Engine Height

    I ordered the prop from BBlades today. Very helpful people. I got the 17 pitch with the flo torq 4 hub made for Yamaha. The lady there said I should see better performance than the 3 blade Reliance Yamaha prop in 3500 rpm to 4200 rpm range.
  5. kingrex

    R180- who has one?

    I love mine. Done a few updates. All in all the base model is pretty nice. I added gunnel lights. I added a Blue Sea add a battery and moved all the batteries into the CC. Got rid of the toilet and made that a great storage space. I have the 150. It cruises nice at 29 mph to 31 mph. Takes chop pretty good. I have to motor down the speed and drive the nose down a little to cut the crud, but it does as I ask. I got a used 2013. The cushions burned due to sun tan lotion. bummer. I added a Garmin GPS map 1242. I put some external transducers that work on troll. I had to add a inhull transducer to get reading while planning. I set the windshield with cabinet latches and have the grab rail modded so I can install and remove in about 5 minutes. I keep mine in a garage.
  6. kingrex

    R180 Trailer

    I think I get what you're saying. But if you add a quarter inch plate to the grab rail feet at the back where you stand by the wheel, it will throw off the holes in the front by the seat. But if I'm hearing you right, it would be nice to have a plate spanning those two feet by the wheel permanently affixed and SS studs sticking out of the console. The new plate would slip over the studs so you no longer have to access the inside of the CC. That's a good idea, but hard to make work. FYI, I don't bother with the lock washers anymore. I just put a flat washer in there and lightly snug the nut up to it. I've never had a problem on a day trip with any of them coming loose. I have found a single flat washer will hang on a stud long enough for me to get my socket with a long extension up to it. I have the nut inside the socket head. It helps keep from having your hands in that admittedly small space. More of my problem now is upon removal, the flat washer drops on the floor of the CC and can be difficult to find. I'm having a idea. I have fiddled with double-sided tape on quite a few occasions. I'm now thinking the four washers that go on those studs are going to be double-sided taped to the inside of my console from now on. That way when I take the grab rail on and off all I need to do is slide my socket with the nut in the socket cup up to the stud and spin it tight. I never have to reach my hands in there again. I have use double-sided tape on other occasions. It comes in many different strengths. I have used 3 lb to 15 lb tape. The 15 lb tape will it here stronger than you think. I am going to start out with 5 lb tape for this application.
  7. kingrex

    NMEA 2000 Upgrade for Yamaha?

    Lawrence and Garmin are interchangeable. I couldn't even find a Garmin Nema mm cable. I just bought the Lowrance and it works fine. I bought the cable in the link and fished it for my Yamaha motor to my multi-function display and it worked great. OP seems to be saying there is already a network cable in place. I'm not sure why he can't just buy another drop and tie it to is multi-function display. I also track fuel level through my MFD. Yesterday a friend told me a painful story of running out of fuel last weekend. I now have a fuel gauge from a tank sender to my Yamaha unit and a fuel gauge calculated from data my motor tells the Garmin head unit. In short I have two different types of tank fill level to validate against each other. It's comforting to have redundancy as your tank gets low.
  8. kingrex

    NMEA 2000 Upgrade for Yamaha?

    My understanding is Yamaha talks nema 2000. It sounds like you have a backbone and all you need is another T to pull a termination off it to your MFD. Maybe you need some sort of Yamaha to Lowrance/Garmin nema adapter.
  9. kingrex

    R180 Motor Upgrade

    If your hitting 6300 rpm your underpropped. Per my reading and conversations, you will loose about 200 to 300 rpm with every degree of pitch you add. You could go up 2 degree, maybe even 3 and fall into a perfect power band. You should pick up a lot of speed and hit spec. If you went steel from AL, strait across swap you would loose 200 rpm due to less slip.
  10. kingrex

    R180 f150 Engine Height

    The Rev 4 better be. I'm ordering one with a Flo-torq 4. I am a little concerned about rattle. I troll quite often at idle. I wonder if some of the flutter might not be a prop that needs tunning. I hope it's not an issue. I'm just curious if I can improve my mid range speed. And it wont hurt to have a little more umph when driving in rough chop. Power to move a little faster but push the nose down and cut the waves without trim tabs. So far I find trimmed down I don't have too much issue, but I'm also right at the falling off plane and using a lot of fuel. But really, for me, hopefully at 4200 rmp and less I can get a little more speed.
  11. kingrex

    R227 100 Hour Service

    The water pump is the issue. You have to drop the lower unit and it takes a special slide hammer to remove the housing. The parts kit is more than $140. The 100 hour service also includes the water separator and spark plugs. Do you own a business and have to pay employees. Remember, there is time in the office for billing, estimation, taxes, payroll and just keeping the lights on as well as lease cost. Don't forget, there is time getting the boat in and out of storage to the work bay and back to storage. There is also a cashier to process payment. It's a buainess with mechanics they have to pay to keep educated. Now I'm getting a little over the top but I'm kind of tired of people crapping on the value of skilled working class people. What makes you so special you earn $200,000 a year. That mechanic probably makes $40,000 to $70,000. Would you like him to work for you for free ? How about you do your job for free. Owe thats right, you want a fair wage for your work too. As well as your boss and everyone up the chain or sown the chain if your the owner. And if your the owner, you do it for free, right. Your just there to provide employment to your people. IMO $700 for a full 100 hour service is a fair price, If you don't want to pay it, pull your boat onto land and spend a weekend doing it yourself. The 2nd and 3rd time will go faster. The tools will be a one time $500 to get them all. Don't F up the water pump. That mistake will cost you a motor. After my ranting. Doing the service yourself means you are mechanically adept and better prepared to deal with a failure at sea. It's not a bad idea to do the work yourself. Get intimate with your craft. I do mine. Everything but the water pump so far. I drive the lower unit to my mechanic and hand it to him. Spend the $250 on a well calibrated torque wrench to know how tight the lower unit bolts should be. Strip those and your into a bunch more money. While your at it, break down your hydrolic steering and service it too. Also look over all your electrical terminations and check any wet cell batteries. Don't forget the trailer. Its a good time to thoroughly inspect for rust and other issues with breaks and bearings. A trailer rebuild ia $1,400.
  12. kingrex

    I’m kind of handy...boat upgrades

    Adding value is continually on schedule or ahead of schedule servicing the motor and keeping records of it. Adding value is continually cleaning the boat and keeping scum from staining it so it has a pristine freshlook. Adding value is garaging the boat so it doesn't sit out in the elements and rot or bleach out in the sun. I think everything else is just making it more suited to your needs. I'm fiddling with ads myself. I'm making a leaning rail up on the front so you can stand on the nose up high. I'm also making a bolster to go against the ski tow bar to stand up on the back more sturdily. I'm also adding storage. I'm not cutting the side of my CC as that intrudes on the interior space. Plus my poles layup against the side there. On the interior I have Plywood over some of the toilet area making storage racks inside of there. I don't use a toilet. It's a fishing boat. Men can pee over the edge. And I'm not pumping out a toilet after one of my friends has used it. I also dropped the handrail inside of the CC. I lowered it and put cross bars so that if a storage rack too. I bought a new flip flop seat and will mount it on the existing leaning post frame. That cooler under the leaning post is going away. That will be a new custom tackle drawer. If I want that cooler it fits up front in the CC on the plywood deck I built. For the most part, the ice box in the front holds any drinks I need. We don't use a lot of live bait in Washington so the Live Well also acts as an excellent ice storage cooler. Then again, I Gill my fish and throw them into the live bait well to keep blood off my deck and an easy way to rinse them down. I also rebuilt the thru hole scuppers in the back of my deck so that they're flush with the floor where by blood guts and any water flow right out of the boat. That was one of the best mods I did to the boat. That and moving all the batteries into the CC where the weight is more centered and in the middle of the boat. Plus the electronics are easy to access and all in a dry location. I like to tell myself the battery work with the add a battery kit added-value.
  13. kingrex

    R180 f150 Engine Height

    Thanks Haz. That makes sense to me. I'm starting with a SS Revolution prop by Yamaha. 4 prop shops all told me I have the best prop made to give me optimum crusiong speed, fuel economy and lift. They all said a 4 blade would NOT improve cruising or top end. Propgods said I need to drop down 2 pitches and get some 3 blade Merc prop they offer. I'm not sure why. I said my boat tops out at 5500 rpm. The best Yamaha mechanic in WA said thats perfect as the F150 is rated at 5000 rpm to 6000 rpm. PropGods was upfront and said I would get more grip and control in rough water pitching down, but my rpm would be 300 to 400 rpm higher at 30 mph. Meaning my crusing 30 mph rpm would be around 4700 rpm. What I dont get is why they think I am bogging my motor at wot of 5500 rpm. I'm dead middle of the suggested range. My Yamaha mechanic said you couldn't pick a better prop for my boat. Thats my understanding so far. As a disclaimer, i have no experience with any other props. Just talking to people. One last thought. If your prop is shaking, maybe a good prop shop can true the blades. I have had auto parts such as pistons, cams, cranks etc balanced and straitened for performance. I don't see why a prop shop couldn't make sure all the blades are pitched the same and just like a car tire, the centrifugal weight the same at all blades. No they don't put sticky weights on the blades. They grind off and repolish the metal on the heaviest blades.
  14. kingrex

    R180 f150 Engine Height

    I called 3 prop shops today. The Mercury guy told me the Yamaha props are better than Mercury. The Merc guys as well as the Yamaha guy said, I should be getting better cruising speeds with the Yamaha reliance 3 blade than a mercury 4 blade. Also, whats your boat crash. I don't get anywhere near 47mph at 5500 rpm. I'm maybe 40 to 41. The R180 is only rated at 42 mph wot. HAZ, did you have the Reliance 18 x 14.25 prop, then switched to the Rev 4. Did you loose cruising speed? Thanks
  15. kingrex

    R200 Storage opportunity under front seats

    Another storage space. Open the door to the cc. Lower the grab rail. Cut a few square stock aluminum rods to tie onto the lowered grab rail and sit the other end on the bottom lip of the door. Holds tackle boxes, small fenders, whatever. I took the toilet out and have massive storage room now. I also raised up the fishing rod holder on the side of the cc. I ran the bolt on the inside through the plastic packaging of my flare gun. It's always very accessible now.
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