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kingrex

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About kingrex

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  1. Mine never leaks. Check the covers in the recessed area in front of the transom where the water backwashes in when in revers or in a fast stop. Do the covers have gaskets. Drain plug. Open the access hatches and watch the drain hole. Is water coming in. The live bait well drain is also well below the water line. Watch that while watching the drain. You can also look behind the seats and see the floor drain through hulls. You can remove the fish rod tube holder on the bottom starboard side and see the through hull for the fish box drain. Watch it and see if water is coming in. Robalo does not do a good job with setting those clamps so under speed pressure could push water in. Nothing else can leak unless there is a hole. Tap our the hull with a light rubber dead blow. Is there an actual hole???? Check hard up by the nose where the drain for the anchor comes through. Look about 4 inches below and behind. Is there a hole there. It will be a small hairline crack. Almost like a spot they patched after having a rod through the hull to spin the boat during production, then they patch.
  2. I recently replaced my cushions by having a local guy do the work. I just replaced the pieces that needed it. The tech said it was suntan lotion that acts as magnifying glasses and burns the fabric. Its so nice to have clean fabric.
  3. I can't post pix here, but I moved my batties to the console. I bought 1/2" cutting board material and made a stand to keep the battery up a little off the floor. I also used the material to make a U type clamp that I put onto the sides of the hull. I then fit a 1.5"x 5/4" piece of dense clean maple wood as a brace to hold the battery in place. They are pretty rock solid unmoving. As for the floor, that foot stool was letting standing water into the space below. I drilled out a small hole and pumped a gallon or more of water out of the saturated foam. Once a year I open the hole and pump out maybe a cup that is slowly leaching out of the foam. I did put a blue sea add a battery in. One of the best mods I did to the boat. That and the Canon Rails that act as slides for the feet of my leaning post. That was the best. Well maybe the battery. Not sure. Both were necesary in my mind.
  4. Why??? Do you have the largest motor for the boat. What do they do for you. I get into some snot on plane and push the motor down a little to cut it more. I have been in some big mixed chop that I was jumping and slambing. But that seemed to be more a function of my R180 not being long enough to bridge the crests. More than anything I was trying to keep my nose up as I fell into the trough and hit the next face. I was not trying to put the nose lower and bury it. I was trying to power it up and keep from diving under. Where do you find tabs to be a benefit. What situations. Thanks Rex
  5. Sharrow prop is $2000 for cast stainless. But yes, its a lot of $. And I emailed Sharrow about particular. You know, how do I compare the pitch and diameter to what I have now. How do I get assistance on purchasing a prop. In my mind i received an unsatisfactory answer. I wrote back and noted a guide to selecting the correct prop should be offered before you purchase a prop. And what if its wrong such as when I took a demo on a 4 blade and was able to return it. No response. They must make plenty fitting super tankers with propellers. We as sportsmen seem to be a thorn they have not decided whether to pluck or clear the bush.
  6. kingrex

    Kicker advice

    How has the kicker bracker and seastar worked out. Im looking to add a kicker myself.
  7. kingrex

    Fuel vent

    That's a lot of water. How could you fill gas into your tank if it came in the vent as such. It would have flooded the container in the rear port jump seat that is some sort of something. I don't know what , but I assume it would have filled after the 1st quart and without the vent, filling the fuel tank becomes a challenge that others have complained about.
  8. Get the 150 HP and skip the trim pads. You never need to shove the nose down into the dirt, so why tabs. I am always fine with how much I can nose down. If your towing people in a tube then maybe tabs are an asset. I don't do that. I go into medium rough water to fish. Get a Sharow prop and tell me how it works!!!!!!!!! A garmin GPS MPS 12 inch will fit in the console. As long as you tell them put noting in the center space. You only need the 2 gauges to the right. The Nema 2000 gives way better engine data than any Yamaha gauge will. Use the bigger display. I get engine water temp and oil pressure with mine. Big asset. Robalo duel battery system sucks. I use the Add A battery by Blue Sea. The Robalo power switch will fail. It just does. I put both my battery in the front console and skipped the bathroom. Bathroom are for women. That storage space is a big asset. But again, I am a fisherman. I don't do the family stuff in my boat. So my opinions are from that slant.
  9. This is a cool mod. You will have to have 3/4 of a brain to do this, and a right angle drill helps. Also good tool skills. I have a drill press but opted not to use it. I bought 2 x 36" Canon rails. The ones made to hold their downriggers and other accessories. I unbolted my leaning post from the floor. I slid the rails onto the feet of the leaning post. They fit pretty good. I did have to take a large crescent wrench and tork one of the feet just a touch so it slid in the rail smooth. I also took a file and touched the bottom and edges of the feet to take off burs and sharp edges to help sliding. I set the assembly on the floor and figured out where I wanted the seat to slide. I was determined to drill holes in the rails to insert into the holes in my floor. Don't drill your floor. The hole pattern on the feet will match the ones in your floor. They are not going to line up with the channels in the Canon rails. This is where the right angle drill comes into play. Getting the pilot hole and bolt hole in the rail is not that hard. Getting the screw head recess is harder. I had to clamp the rail to my work bench. I had to push the cutting head on the recessing tool at an angle into the channel to get the flair in the right place. You will see what I mean. In the end. Holly smoke. I can now push the bench back when motoring about 10 inches. That makes huge room to stand comfortably when cruising from hole to hole. When I hit my hole and start to fish, I shove the bench forward and get an additional 5 inches of rear deck space. I have not been out in shit weather, but as is, I see no reason to futz with trying to make a lock it in place system. It stays where I want when I want. Does not move. Slide just fine with little effort when I want. This is one of those must do mods if you are a fisherman. Sorry, this site is no good to load photos. If you want to email me to see what I am talking about, and other mods such as my front and real leaning post. And an excellent radio antenna mount that folds for garaging and other such goodies. Kingrexelectric@gmail.com
  10. I thinking a Sharow prop. Anyone try one?
  11. I used standard 3m and really built up the area on either side of the door. This stopped a lot of water from getting into the console. I always open the door when not in use. But I garage my boat. You know where you have water that is sitting. Its in front of the console. Under the floor in front of where the fish box is. There is a small 1.5 inch hole that goes into that space from the console form which you can try and pump it out. There may also be a big cut away where the step goes that you can try and reach in with a sponge. Its really hard to do that. I was having big issues with my fish box drain letting water out as the hole was too high. I cut a 6 inch hole in my floor and put a cover over the hole. I used that hole as access to glass over where the drain went and then cut a new hole with a different through hull scupper and my box drains excellent now. As an added bonus, at the end of the day, I unscrew the cover and can easily reach in there with a sponge and take any water our. My boat is much dryer since doing that.
  12. I don't have a toilet either. I have massive storage in the front. Jackets, clothes, tools, tackle bags. Lots and lots in there.
  13. I have a 2013 R180. For starters, the battery switch in the back starboard seat is a joke. They break and will leave you stranded. You want a better switch. When you get a better switch you can get a duel position switch. The problem is, there is no isolation between your start battery and the accessory battery. Unless you get something along the lines of the Blue Sea Add a Battery. If you go that route, you have some work cut out for you. For starters, the ground post is behind the phenolic board where the switch is. It is a pain to get to it. I got a wrench on mine, removed all the wires and added a new one on the inside of the jump seat. Now you have more work to do. It is best to have at least one CB between the battery and the switch. You also want to look up Load Side wiring of the relay. If you line side it, when its turned off, the relay is constantly pinging the battery to see whats up and drains it. On the load of the switch, when you disconnect the battery, the relay is dead. You will also need to get a decent crimper for about $100 and good terminals. I am an electrician by trade and it took me a good 14 to 16 hours to really do the basics of the work. And in all fairness and truth, I did not do mine in that small jump seat area. I moved my batteries into the storage area, head in the CC. If you want to keep your batteries in the back, or you put them up front, be very careful with the screw holes you mount the battery boxes with. The area under the jump seat is a sealed hull and small amounts of water probably puddle on the surface. That water over time will intrude into that sealed hull and slowly saturate the foam in there. I personally believe after I did what I did, my battery system is better than most any boat out there. It is very reliable and robust. putting the battery up font is more than what I did. I bet a local electrician could do the work in 10 to 12 hours. If you do it yourself, be careful. Any time you make a connection, scratch it across the connection point. Don't just drop a ring onto a post. If you messed up the wiring and made a dead short, it can weld itself onto the post in a split second and cause the battery to explode.
  14. FWIW. BBlades wrote back today and said be very careful raising the motor all the way up. You can impact the ability of the cooling system to take in water and burn up the motor. I have not had a chance to really look at where my motor is when under plane. I am going to do that once I have my 3 blade on and tested again.
  15. I did not raise the motor all the way up. I have 2 holes open to raise up. Does that really affect RPM that much. I'm barely hitting 5300. If I went up, what would my 3 blade do. Would it even bite.
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