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Kman

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Everything posted by Kman

  1. Kman

    246 Cayman using Rhodan 36V 84" trolling motor

    Don’t have either your boat or trolling motor, but I can give you a data point. I have an R180 and a 24V Ulterra TM that can draw 56 max amps at 80# thrust. I feed the TM with a pair of dedicated wet interstate 29s. After a full day fishing in so cal (including several hours on “anchor”), I typically put 30-35 AH back in the batts. The AHs would drop by around 30% if I had a 36v system. The SAE plain copper automotive wire Robalo provided for the TM was grossly inadequate for the purpose (just like their battery cables), so I replaced them all with properly sized, tinned, type 3 stranded AWG marine wire. Why do boat builders use automotive wire anyway? Good luck.
  2. Kman

    TM Mount

    Minn Kota Quick Release on Aluminum plate.
  3. Kman

    R200 Trolling motor?

    I put a 24 volt, 60” Minn Kota Ulterra in my 2013 R180 and love it. I would have gotten a 72” if it came in 24 volt, but it did not as of a year ago. It’s powered by 2 dedicated group 29 batts in the console. Power should be dedicated as all the TM’s drive electronics will wreak havoc on your electrical system. I’d go 72”, 36V for an R200. Maybe go with 3 group 27s. I had plates made (top and backing) that cantilever the TM over the bow and align it with the gunnel. Works great. I have the CAD cut files for each if that helps. Back when I was shopping, Minn Kota only interfaced with Hummingbird, but I bought it for the self deploy/stow feature which is AWESOME.
  4. Kman

    R180 Bait Tank

    I put a 30+ gallon bait tank in the R180 a while back and am very happy with the results. It is a custom “fat oval” cut down to fit under the seat. It has a sealed lid to stop sloshing of water when it is nautical out. The bait can be accessed by folding the seat back forward. The seat back now folds forward using custom hinges. All of the plumbing is below deck, and I didn’t have to add a hatch. I would post pictures, but the site is telling me I’ve used up my allotment of space. Is there another way to post pictures once you’ve reached the max? Snuck in this pic.
  5. I’m kind of late to this party. My R180 weighs in (on a scale) at 4300# including 525# on the tongue with all the crap I’ve added. I was towing with a Trailblazer rated to 5200# (4,000# non load leveling) but it was just too much, so I got a Yukon. Lots of sites like this have people warning if you have a wreck while towing over limit your insurance can bail on you. $.02
  6. Kman

    Accessory electrical issues

    Not enough info. What boat? When built? I rewired the back of my 2013 R180 as it appeared to have been wired as a bare hull, then the liner was installed, making most of the connections impossible to troubleshoot or access on the water. I tossed the generic circuit breakers that were open to the bilge and mounted marine ones under the jump seat where I can see them. I also replaced all the 6 ga “battery cable” with Yamaha recommended 4 ga, and used real marine wire.
  7. Kman

    R200 Trolling Motor Wiring

    I’ve been in contact with The Trolling Motor Doctor regarding my R180. He said to add 25 inches to determine shaft length. $.02
  8. Kman

    Vent on bow of R227?

    Hope not. My horn faces down, towards the ocean.
  9. Thanks. I’ll give it another try. The first attempt at getting parts didn’t go so well. It was a bureaucratic nightmare. Picture the DMV requesting info and ordering from the VA. I finally gave up. They were more interested in selling me R200s at discounted prices that were sitting on their lot. I have another dealer in the area. Maybe they want my parts business. I would like a footrest for my console. At the end of the day though, it’s more important for me to have a large capacity, secondary bilge pump than a perfectly matching thru hull. Come to think of it, I’m going to upsize the existing bilge pump to something more appropriate for safe ocean fishing, so having the bilge thru hulls match will be easy. I’m not looking forward to doing the work though, as I can just blindly touch the hull with my fingertips as I lay across the splash well, reaching one arm into the hatch. You need to be a laparoscopic surgeon to work down there lol.
  10. Hey. New guy here. I just bought a 2013 R180/F115 with 102 freshwater hours on it. I saltwater boat in So Cal, so the first thing I need to do is convert this single battery boat to dual—not counting trolling motor batteries. The manual (complete with schematics) came with the boat. Looks like a Blue Seas 6007 4-position mini switch is a drop in replacement for the on/off switch that is in there now. New switch, add a second battery cable, ACR and a negative distribution point and I should be good to go in the stern. Of course I will need to add a House fuse block in the console along with feed wiring and a circuit breaker. Now about adding the batteries. I fish offshore during the season and fish inshore all year. I use a lot of electronics, so I usually outfit my boats with a pair of group 31 batteries. I also plan on overnighting on this boat under the mooring cover. So there’s 150 pounds in the starboard battery compartment. I can’t live without a GPS enabled and networked trolling motor, so I could possibly add two more 31s in the port compartment—or in the center console if weight distribution becomes an issue. Which brings me to the question: Have any of you loaded up the stern of a R180 with 300# of batteries? How will that affect planing? Any issues with scuppers? I do not currently have trim tabs. Adding the House and trolling motor batts to the console floor is always an option. Next issue is a secondary bilge pump with high water alarm, and a LED indicator to tell me when the primary bilge activates. Anyone know where to get matching chrome thru hulls? Lastly (for now lol) I had to toss those vertical rod holders on the console. They just don’t work for my kind of fishing. I’m putting in 6 vertical holders on each side of the console. So now I have 8 holes to patch where the old rod holders were attached. Be nice to do it right. How do you color match a 2013 R180? Thanks. PS. That transom area is a total PITA to work in. Clearly, the hull was plumbed and wired before the liner was mated to the hull. You need to be an octopus to work back there. Here is the single battery panel, awaiting the drop-in dual battery switch.
  11. Hey. I’m going to supplement that PWC 500 GPH bilge pump with a 3700 GPH one tied into a high water alarm. Anyone know where I can find a 1 1/2” chrome (or polished stainless) thru hull that matches what the boat has now? Thanks.
  12. Nice color match! I just ordered some. SPate: Thank you for the info. The prop on there currently is a Power Tech stainless 13.25 X 15. I also have the original aluminum Yamaha 13.5 X 19. I need to get some hours on the boat to see how she does before I decide on battery size and placement. I’m encouraged you get 10 hours use out of a pair of group 27s, though I take it that is not non stop usage. Thanks
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