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Kman

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About Kman

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  1. I get good depth at under 20 kts with Lowrance 3 in 1 ducer.
  2. Liquid Rollers silicone spray on the bunks and raising the hitch height to like 24” solved my “glued to the bunks” problem.
  3. On my 2013 115, that was the easy part. I took the top plate off exposing the grommet and the shifter, throttle cables. I ran the interface cable alongside one of the control cables and done. Fishing the interface cable through the rigging tube took maybe 1/2 hour as I had to disassemble the Y where the fuel comes in and run a fish tape through there.
  4. I have the same year R180 as you but with the 115 *sigh*. I did the engine interface thing. It was an easy install. Don’t know about your 150, but my normal operating temp is 125-130F. I changed the thermostat (a one minute job) since it was 6 years old. Same operating temp. The thermostat is 50 degrees C. I believe the engine alarms in the 170s F.
  5. Kman

    R200 Came Today

    We fish structure a ton, so we spend a lot of time looking at the MFD. Not liking to look down and lose situational awareness, I bracket mounted the 12” MFD where the compass was. Ya, lost some storage and the compass, but it works for me. I have plenty of backup stuff for navigation if the MFD craps the bed.
  6. I had the same problem with my 180. Damn thing was glued to the bunks. What fixed it for me was to raise the ball to 25” and spray the bunks with “Liquid Rollers” silicone spray (on Amazon). Still, I use 1/2 throttle reverse while my driver does a brake check just when the wheels touch the water. Not ideal, but works for me.
  7. I could not handle 2” taller as my 180 is a BEAR to get off the trailer without submerging my Yukon’s rear tires. Sometimes I feel it is Velcroed to the bunks. Liquid Roller (silicone spray, Amazon) applied a couple times a year to the bunks makes it much better. I weighed my tongue and trailer at a local truck scale. Recycle places have scales as well.
  8. I have the same 2013 R180/Karavan setup. To keep the bow from bouncing, I must drive/winch the boat WAY up into the winch. The strap going to the eye should be horizontal if not up a little aft. The eye ends up just beneath the roller and between the roller’s uprights. This usually needs to be retightened within a mile of retrieving or the bow will start bouncing. Bouncing doesn’t seem to hurt anything, it’s just scary watching the trailer flex like that. As for tongue weight. I’m running around 500-550# with 2 grp 29s in the console and a trolling motor up front. Tow vehicle is a Yukon, I’m allowed 650#. Thanks for the reminder on replacing the trailer tires. Good idea as this is such a heavy single axle application.
  9. Just to bookmark this thread for future benefit, I purchased and installed the replacement lights mentioned above, and the lighting was inadequate for my needs. I ended up putting 2 downward-facing sea Dog 4” LED strip lights (SDL 401450-1) under each gunnel to get the desired lighting.
  10. Well, it’s a little late for me now. I’m done adding heavy stuff and my performance is adequate with 2 people, their gear and a full, 30 gallon bait tank. Did 48 miles yesterday and got 3.8 MPG in choppy seas.
  11. Thank you Haz! I was able to loosen both lights by getting a finger on the nut and rotating the light with a pair of pliers. The nuts weren’t gel coated in like the thru hulls are. BTW jealous you have the 150. It should be a crime to sell the R180 with a 115.
  12. 2013 R180/F115 So I’ve added a ton of stuff to my R180. The Lowrance Outboard Pilot being the most recent addition—love it with the HDS 12 Live. Now I’m installing white LED “mood lighting” all around the floor area, under the gunnels and in the compartments. It’s nice to light the interior of the boat without wrecking your night vision. There are two existing blue courtesy lights in the cockpit and one in the Live well (that is now dry storage) that I would like to replace with white ones. Robalo part number for these lights is 25.00015. Anybody know who makes these, and do they make them in white? Otherwise, I’ll just abandon them in place. Thanks. PS Check your steering fluid. Mine was squid ink black and took 1.5 gallons of Sea Star fluid to get clear again. Wish I would have flushed it before installing the auto pilot.
  13. Don’t have either your boat or trolling motor, but I can give you a data point. I have an R180 and a 24V Ulterra TM that can draw 56 max amps at 80# thrust. I feed the TM with a pair of dedicated wet interstate 29s. After a full day fishing in so cal (including several hours on “anchor”), I typically put 30-35 AH back in the batts. The AHs would drop by around 30% if I had a 36v system. The SAE plain copper automotive wire Robalo provided for the TM was grossly inadequate for the purpose (just like their battery cables), so I replaced them all with properly sized, tinned, type 3 stranded AWG marine wire. Why do boat builders use automotive wire anyway? Good luck.
  14. Kman

    TM Mount

    Minn Kota Quick Release on Aluminum plate.
  15. I put a 24 volt, 60” Minn Kota Ulterra in my 2013 R180 and love it. I would have gotten a 72” if it came in 24 volt, but it did not as of a year ago. It’s powered by 2 dedicated group 29 batts in the console. Power should be dedicated as all the TM’s drive electronics will wreak havoc on your electrical system. I’d go 72”, 36V for an R200. Maybe go with 3 group 27s. I had plates made (top and backing) that cantilever the TM over the bow and align it with the gunnel. Works great. I have the CAD cut files for each if that helps. Back when I was shopping, Minn Kota only interfaced with Hummingbird, but I bought it for the self deploy/stow feature which is AWESOME.
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