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ba_fisher

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About ba_fisher

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  1. ba_fisher

    R305 ?? Need info please

    Robalo makes "mid grade" boats with "mid range" prices. However, at the higher end like the R305, the price doesn't seem that far off from a Whaler 285 Conquest, and the size isn't that much bigger. I like my current R200, but if I were to upgrade to that size, I'll probably get a Whaler. R305 = 29' 2" LOA 10'6" beam 9600lb dry weight Conquest 285 = 27'10" LOA 9'6" beam ~8700lb dry weight
  2. ba_fisher

    R180 Bait Tank

    To post photos, click on "create" at the top of the page and choose "Gallery Image". After you have posted images, you can insert them into your posts by clicking on "Insert other media" while you edit your post. Choose "inserting existing attachments", and then "Gallery images". Yes, it's not very obvious at all, but perhaps Robalo doesn't like people uploading too many hot girl photos here :-)
  3. ba_fisher

    When is the BEST time to purchase?

    I think sometimes you get like $1000 off at boat shows.
  4. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    When the seat is folded down, it's almost touching the bulkhead behind the seat. So if I move the bracket back, the seat cannot be folded down anymore :-(
  5. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    If you look at my photo you can see that the metal bracket has a piece of metal at the back, which is in front of the rear edge of the opening. The seat is further in front of this piece of metal, so it doesn't completely cover the opening.
  6. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    When I washed the boat yesterday, I found a fatal flaw to my plan. The seat doesn't complete cover the opening ... so if water falls on the seat, it drips down the back of the seat directly into the bilge. This is starting to really bug me. I want to build some sort of hatch cover, but the placement of the seat brackets makes that difficult. I have 2 rather dumb ideas: [1] Just cover the entire opening with transparent plastic (Walmart clear shower curtain). Tape the edges with duct tape. I'd still be able to see what's inside there, and in a pinch I can just rip out the plastic (to put out a fire on the battery, etc). The problem with this is water will pool on top of the plastic. But maybe this is OK. [2] Put a piece of 1/2 inch starboard below the seat brackets. Cut a hole that's as large as possible (otherwise it would be hard to move the battery out). Use a router to make a 1/8 inch deep ridge. Put a piece of 1/8 inch clear acrylic sheet over the ridge, and seal all four sides of the sheet using duct tape. I would just rip the duct tape in the rare case when I need access to the bilge area. To avoid using duct tape, I could put weather stripping around the acrylic sheet, but I don't think the seat bottom would provide enough pressure to ensure a good seal.
  7. ba_fisher

    ba_fisher's Album

  8. ba_fisher

    Trolling Motor Install on R200

    Here's a new piece of proper stainless steel tubing (0.065 inch walls) to cover the opening in the rail. It's secured by 2 bicycle post clamps. The web site that sold the tubing said it was "polished" but it turned out to be pretty rough, so I spend a couple of hours polishing it with #100 ~ #3000 sand papers while watching TV. After I cut the railing, it had become pretty flappy if you pushed against it. Now it feels almost as sturdy as before.
  9. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    Caps on the rearmost rod holders, which drain into the bilge. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Rod-Holder-Pop-In-Cap-56136SPC/392074431549
  10. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    Here's what it looks like after 2 weeks. There's oxidation on the copper. Maybe most of it is from the shavings when I flared the pipe. A simple wipe removes the oxidation. Let's wait and see how it goes. I hope it won't leave a green streak where the water is drained on the deck :-( Here's my duct tape job on the weather stripping. It doesn't look like it will last a long time. I'll try the silicone RTV idea if the duct tape falls off.
  11. ba_fisher

    Trolling Motor Install on R200

    The motor seems to be pretty easy to control with a remote control. It can also be follow routes programmed inside your fish finder. I'll test the top speed next time I go fishing, but it can go as slow as 0.1 mph, or make the boat stationary using GPS signals. I mount the motor across the front seats due to my high bow rail. If you don't have high rails, I've seen others that mount the motor on top of the gunwale with minimum interference with the front passengers. For me, it doesn't matter because I fish 4-5 people and no one sits on the front seats. If I go out cruising with the family I just remove the motor (it has a quick-release mechanism) and put the motor in my truck.
  12. ba_fisher

    Trolling Motor Install on R200

    I have a spill box under the batteries. I also covered each terminal with these terminal covers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A3I23NQ/ so hopefully they'll be OK. As an aside, the batteries under the jump seats didn't have a top cover coming out of the factory, but they do have rubber terminal covers like the ones I bought.
  13. ba_fisher

    Kicker for 202 Explorer

    Going slow is not a problem with these electric motors :-) Unlike gas motors, they don't have a minimum idle speed, so you can set the prop to rotate very slowly. The main reason I bought the electric trolling motor is to use it as a sea anchor to stay right on top of small reefs. My motor can use GPS lock to stay within about 15 ft automatically. It also comes with a remote control that allows you to control the direction and speed. (I also hooked it up with my fish finder using a NMEA cable. The fishing finder is supposed to be able to control it to go along a route, although I haven't quite figured out how that works). I've used it only twice, and haven't tested the full throttle speed. I probably have gone at 1mph that but wasn't full throttle. I'll go out tomorrow and I'll test the top speed. Minn Kota's web site has this info about speed: https://www.minnkotamotors.com/support/faqs/how-does-thrust-compare-speed, which claims their motors can go up to 5mph. Also, if staying at a fixed spot is not a requirement, but going slowly is, you may consider an outboard-mounted trolling motor: https://minnkotamotors.johnsonoutdoors.com/freshwater-trolling-motors/engine-mount?id=13631 They are cheaper than bow-mounted ones.
  14. ba_fisher

    Kicker for 202 Explorer

    For trolling motor, see my install thread. I have a 36v.
  15. ba_fisher

    Kicker for 202 Explorer

    Maybe try something this? Kicker Bracket by SaltBoss Marine https://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/threads/new-kicker-bracket-by-saltboss-marine.501874/
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