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About ba_fisher

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  1. ba_fisher

    Trolling motors

    I have a 36v 72in MotorGuide. I bought it because it is supposed to be able connect to my Lowrance fish finder. So I spent $200+ on an stupid NMEA cable and found out that the fish finder would sometimes drive the boat to the wrong direction! I ended up just controlling the motor using the remote, which turns out just fine. If I were to do it again I would have bought a Minn Kota with the auto-deploy feature. My friend has that and is very happy with it.
  2. ba_fisher

    Robalo Warranty - Not

    I think you still have enough letters to spell LOL BOOB!
  3. ba_fisher

    2018 R200 factory mooring cover

    Another problem with this cover is that some of the straps will slip. So I would ratchet the whole thing tight, only to find out a week later that the straps would come loose. The fix is to get these - 1 Inch Plastic Triglides Slides https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VSS8V6/
  4. ba_fisher

    2018 R200 factory mooring cover

    Rain season has started in California, and I found that it's pretty easy for water to pool up over the bow. That's partly due to the high bow rail, which creates a rather flat area for the cover. My solution is pool noodles :-) They are hard to come by in the winter but I found some on Amazon.
  5. ba_fisher


    I don’t remember exactly but I think it’s about 40”. In any case, get a 72” shaft. I have a 72 and the prop will still occasionally come out of the water in 2-3 foot seas.
  6. ba_fisher

    R200 Coyote Trailer Tire Pressure

    I found a label inside the A frame of the trailer. It says 50lb for all 5 tires (including the spare)
  7. ba_fisher

    R200 Coyote Trailer Tire Pressure

    I haven't used my trailer for a year and now I need to haul the boat out of the water. Does anyone know what the correct tire pressure should be for the Coyote trailers?
  8. ba_fisher

    R305 ?? Need info please

    Robalo makes "mid grade" boats with "mid range" prices. However, at the higher end like the R305, the price doesn't seem that far off from a Whaler 285 Conquest, and the size isn't that much bigger. I like my current R200, but if I were to upgrade to that size, I'll probably get a Whaler. R305 = 29' 2" LOA 10'6" beam 9600lb dry weight Conquest 285 = 27'10" LOA 9'6" beam ~8700lb dry weight
  9. ba_fisher

    R180 Bait Tank

    To post photos, click on "create" at the top of the page and choose "Gallery Image". After you have posted images, you can insert them into your posts by clicking on "Insert other media" while you edit your post. Choose "inserting existing attachments", and then "Gallery images". Yes, it's not very obvious at all, but perhaps Robalo doesn't like people uploading too many hot girl photos here :-)
  10. ba_fisher

    When is the BEST time to purchase?

    I think sometimes you get like $1000 off at boat shows.
  11. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    When the seat is folded down, it's almost touching the bulkhead behind the seat. So if I move the bracket back, the seat cannot be folded down anymore :-(
  12. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    If you look at my photo you can see that the metal bracket has a piece of metal at the back, which is in front of the rear edge of the opening. The seat is further in front of this piece of metal, so it doesn't completely cover the opening.
  13. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    When I washed the boat yesterday, I found a fatal flaw to my plan. The seat doesn't complete cover the opening ... so if water falls on the seat, it drips down the back of the seat directly into the bilge. This is starting to really bug me. I want to build some sort of hatch cover, but the placement of the seat brackets makes that difficult. I have 2 rather dumb ideas: [1] Just cover the entire opening with transparent plastic (Walmart clear shower curtain). Tape the edges with duct tape. I'd still be able to see what's inside there, and in a pinch I can just rip out the plastic (to put out a fire on the battery, etc). The problem with this is water will pool on top of the plastic. But maybe this is OK. [2] Put a piece of 1/2 inch starboard below the seat brackets. Cut a hole that's as large as possible (otherwise it would be hard to move the battery out). Use a router to make a 1/8 inch deep ridge. Put a piece of 1/8 inch clear acrylic sheet over the ridge, and seal all four sides of the sheet using duct tape. I would just rip the duct tape in the rare case when I need access to the bilge area. To avoid using duct tape, I could put weather stripping around the acrylic sheet, but I don't think the seat bottom would provide enough pressure to ensure a good seal.