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About kpate

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  1. The price of the yamaha prop is absurd. The power tech and solas are nice props. Since I know how a solas will perform, I would be especially interested in your result if you got one of the power tech props.
  2. I ended up using the solas new saturn 13 1/2 x 15 stainless, model 3431-135-15 which turned 6300 rpm, optimally trimmed, full of gas, one battery, and 2 adults. Speed 38-39 mph. Solas makes props in 2 inch pitch increments, so they don't make a 16p in this model . Following the rule of thumb that in the same brand/model prop, each inch of pitch making a difference of 200 rpm, I thought I could turn a 17 pitch solas 5900 rpm and pick up 1-2 mph. I could turn it only 5700 and did not gain any speed. Knowing that for fishing I would be heavier, the 15p was the obvious choice. With an additional battery and loaded for fishing, I can turn 61-6200 with the 15p. Better acceleration with the 15p vs 17p. I believe the yamaha stainless are in even number pitch increments, 14p, 16p etc. and cost around $450. I would like to see what the 16p would do, but am not willing to part with the $ to find out. Some robalo R180 packages have the yamaha stainless prop equipped as an option, but I don't know the pitch. When I was trying to make a decision when my boat was new, I sought forum member input about prop experiences, but got no response from 115 owners. My brother purchased a 2016 R180 with 115 and selected the 15p solas new saturn based on my experience. His performance data is consistent with mine. He does have a trolling motor and 3 batteries, so he is about 100-200 rpm and 1 mph slower than me. I also have the bimini top, and it was in the upright position. I thought that maybe having the stainless prop, I could get 40 mph, but not so. Since you are able to achieve 38mph at 6000rpm with the aluminum, I am not sure spending more $ for a stainless prop to get 1 mph more is worthwhile.
  3. I would suggest that you make sure that your motor is optimally trimmed out at wot. If you had it trimmed way down, this would result in lower rpm and speed. If everything is working properly, it should certainly be faster with higher rpm.
  4. You didn't mention the WOT speed you achieved, but I would think, as you do, that a 14p prop of any brand, aluminum or stainless, should obtain substantially higher rpm than 5400. Before you make any prop decisions, your engine needs to be checked for proper function.
  5. The same pitch and diameter in a particular brand will not turn the same rpm as that of another brand in the same size, due to difference in design, surface area of blades etc. Aluminum vs stainless also makes a difference. Stainless props often have some degree of cupping at the prop edge to decrease slippage, which improves efficiency. The more a prop is cupped, the more it will reduce rpm at a given pitch. Props designed for higher speed boats typically have the most cupping. Aluminum props typically have no cupping, and the blades reportedly flex some under load and are thicker. Stainless do not flex. The solas new saturn has some mild cupping. These variables make comparisons difficult. When I exchanged the stock 14p yamaha aluminum prop, the dealer, using a solas conversion chart, initially installed a 13p solas stainless on the boat. Prior to me taking delivery, the dealer lake tested the boat with this prop. At wot, the over-rev limiter was reached, so they put the 15p on it when I took delivery. This has proven to be a good choice for me. I think most will agree that at wot, you should be towards the higher end of the rpm range. For this application, ideally around 6000 -6200 rpm.
  6. I have a 2016 R180 with the yamaha 115. Mine came factory equipped with the 14 pitch aluminum prop. I don't recall what the diameter was, as I exchanged it for a Solas stainless 13 1/2 x 15 pitch, model# 3431-135-15, new saturn model, that the dealer carried. This was recommended over the yamaha stainless, which is 2x more in cost. The exchange occurred prior to taking delivery of the boat, so I did not run it with the 14p prop. When I lake tested the boat after break-in, the 15p solas turned 6300 rpm with 2 adults and full of fuel. This achieved 38-39 mph per gps and speedometer. This was on calm water at optimum trim. The rpm range for this engine is 5300-6300. Pre 2016 yamaha 115 had 6000 rpm as top of range. I thought that I might to be able to turn a 17 pitch solas and gain some top speed, so I purchased a 17p solas stainless, model #3431-133-17, which is 13 1/4 x 17. With the same load as above, I was able to turn only 5700 rpm, with no gain in top speed, which was a disappointment. I have since added a second battery, and often run with the live well full, since I mostly fish offshore. This extra weight has dropped my wot rpm to about 6200. Therefore, I have concluded that the 15p is the best for me. My brother also has an R180 with the 115 yamaha, and using this prop with good result. With regards to mounting height of engine, I cannot see the holes, as they are full of caulk. It appears that it would be in hole #2 from top to bottom. I don't, think that a higher mount would have a good result. You might pick up a little better top speed and rpm, but I think that cavitation would become excessive. The solas prop appears to be very good quality. The cheapest source I found for it was Dan's Discount Props on the internet at $224.95. Trying to find the best prop for your application can be a pita and expensive. Hope this helps!
  7. Go to and query robalo gelcoat. Scroll down until you find the shark grey repair kit for $29.40. It is indicated that it is for a 2014, but will probably match yours. I used the arctic white to repair my 2016 R180 gelcoat damage from trailer. The color match was perfect. Tape around the area of damage, then overfill it with the gelcoat. You will then need to sand it flush with increasingly fine sandpaper. As I recall, the kit includes sandpaper starting with 200 grit, increasingly fine to 800 grit. I obtained some 1500 and 2000 grit from amazon to finish. You are essentially polishing it with the fine grades and making the scratch area flush with the surface of the boat. Will take a little time, but should be simple. Kit has instructions.
  8. The valve is located in the live well up under the near corner as you face the engine from the interior of the boat. Be advised that the main seacock valve that allows sea water into the system has to be in the open position for either the bait well or the wash down to work. You access this by popping open the transom plate. You can see it at the bottom of the bilge. I think it is usually closed as the default position from the factory.
  9. The issue of the boat striking the fenders while trailering appears to be confined to the R-180, as I have not seen seen this complaint with other Robalo models. The 2017 modification, which gives greater clearance over fenders, should resolve this.
  10. Much has been written about the design flaws for the R-180 coyote trailer. If your damage is occurring directly above the fenders, it is due to inadequate clearance between the fender and the boat. While trailering, the boat moves up and down some when you hit bumps in the road, and the fender is striking the boat. It took me several trips on my R-180 to reach this conclusion. At some point Coyote figured this out, and now uses an improved bunk attachment bracket that is 1.5 inches taller than the previous one. I obtained these brackets by calling Coyote trailer and speaking with Dalton Money, the warranty manager. He required me to send photos of my damaged R-180. It required an additional phone call to him 3 weeks later to get the brackets sent. I have installed them. Be advised that they are taller and wider, and will require you to drill new holes in your bunks. I moved my bunks back 2 inches, so that all the drill holes would not be aligned. That would create structural weakness on the bunk board. When my bunk carpet needs replacement, I will replace the bunk board with a longer one. I have also made several modifications to the trailer to prevent damage from fenders. Home Depot flooring dept. has a rubber baseboard material that is about 5 in wide and 1/16 thick. Comes in 4 ft pieces. I cut a strip about 3 inches wide by about 20 inches long. I then glued it to the top and inside edge of the fender. This requires clamps and removal of the fenders. I unsuccessfully attempted to post photos of this in a prior post. These modifications should prevent most future damage from trailer while loading or trailering. An additional modification was to add another cross beam about 30 inches forward of the existing forward beam. This beam has a center roller, which will provide additional stability and support while loading. I have noticed that the trailers for the 184 Mako and the Sea Hunt 188 both have 4 bunks instead of 2, and also has an additional forward cross beam. The additional bunks are to provide more forward support, which the coyote R-180 trailer lacks. Note that the 2017 R-180 sits higher on the trailer, and the fenders are now being mounted from underneath the I-frame. FYI Spectrum Gel coat, made in robalo arctic white is an excellent color match for the current robalo white hull. A 2oz repair kit is about $30. It is a time consuming, but relatively easy repair. You can get it from Hope this helps!
  11. Check out Just posted today is performance data for a 222es with a 200 yamaha.
  12. I too have a 2016 R180 that has been dinged by the fenders of the coyote trailer. Most of the damage has occurred to the hull directly above the fenders. Some owners, I believe, have inaccurately diagnosed the problem as occurring only while loading the boat on the Coyote trailer. The chrome fenders, while attractive, have a textured finish shaped like diamonds, which chip or scratch your boat. While you can certainly damage the boat while loading it, I believe that most of my damage occurred while trailering and going over bumps, causing the boat to move up and down, resulting in strikes to the fender due to inadequate clearance. With some feedback, Coyote trailers realized this, and have made 2 modifications to the trailer for the R180 2017 models. You can see photos of 2017 R-180s on boat trader with these changes. The first was to increase the height of the bunk fastener bracket by 1.5 inches to improve clearance. The second was to change the fender mounts to the underside of the I-beam. The fender mount change was apparently due to complaints about the weld breaking. Mine has not broken, I don't stand on the fender, although some say it might break due to road vibration. Dealers seem to be clueless about these problems. I obtained the taller replacement brackets by calling Coyote trailers directly and talking to Dalton Money, the warranty manager. He required me to send him a photo of the damage. It required an additional phone call from me, but I was shipped new brackets at no cost. I have not installed them yet. I presently have the fenders removed from my trailer to do gelcoat repair and modification to the fender. The fender photo where I have glued a rubber material to a portion of the top and inside edge. This will prevent further damage from impacts while loading or otherwise. The material came from the flooring department at Home Depot. It is 4 inches wide and about 1/8 inch thick. I cut about 2 inches off the width of the strip when I applied it. You must clamp it at the edges and apply weight on the topside after you glue it. Diver weights worked perfectly. I obtained from amazon some 1/2 inch thick rubber blocks that will be used as a gasket material when I re-attach the fenders to the trailer. This will serve to move the fenders out from beneath the boat, and provide a small amount of shock absorption. There is adequate tire clearance to accommodate this. I must give credit to my brother for these ideas, as he is also a R-180 owner who dinged his boat on the first trip. He has reattached his fenders and reports the rubber gaskets cause the fenders to flex almost nil, as the rubber is very stiff. For those of you needing gelcoat repair the spectrum color gelcoat repair kit is excellent. The robalo arctic white is a perfect match for my white R-180. It is also match for the white portions of the colored hulls as on my brother They have other robalo colors as well. The cost is about $30 for a 2 oz kit. Hope this info is helpful to you and others with this problem. I was going to attach photos, but the file sizes are too large for this site. Took them with my nikon at lowest resolution setting. Sorry!
  13. AO, this prop is the solas new saturn. It is 13 1/2 diam x 15 pitch. My robalo R180 with this prop turns 6300 rpm at wot, which is top of 5300-6300 range spec. My brother recently bought a robalo r180 with the 115 yamaha and identical prop. He has 4 batteries and a trolling motor. His wot rpm is 6100 at 38 mph with 2 adults and 40 gal of gas. He has the equivalent of another adult in the boat with the extra weight of the batteries. I have debated about getting the same prop in a 17 pitch, which would drop my rpm at wot about 400, per rule of thumb. That would still have me at about 5900. I would expect to pick up another 1-2 mph with that, with some loss of acceleration. A 16 pitch might be ideal, but solas prop not available in that pitch. I want to stick with the solas, as it is a well-made prop, and other brands of props, even at the same pitch, can behave differently due to design. The solas was available at my robalo dealer as an alternative to the yamaha stainless props, which are very expensive. I don't spend much time at 4k rpm, but as I recall, I get about 24 mph at this throttle. I am a newbie on this site, but have owned several boats over the years. I hope this info is helpful. Btw, I really like the 115. It is very smooth and quiet. The fuel economy is excellent.
  14. I have the 2016 Robalo R-180 with the 115 yamaha. My boat full of gas with 2 adults, one battery, will run 39 mph with gps with optimum trim. 38 on boat speedometer. I am turning a 15 pitch solas stainless prop, model# 3431-135-15. This prop turns at the top of the rpm range, which will give you quick shots out of the hole. I once had 4 adults in the boat and it still gets out of the hole quickly. I couldn't full throttle it then due to speed restrictions in the river. Unless you are going to get a t-top, pulling multiple skiers, or otherwise heavily weighing it down, I think the 115 is adequate. My primary boat activity is fishing offshore in the gulf of mexico. Seas permitting, I like to cruise about 30 mph. I have no use for the extra speed of the 150, which is reportedly in the upper 40's. Hope this helps.
  15. If anyone is running a stainless prop on their yamaha 115 powered R-180, I would appreciate performance information that would include max speed and rpm at optimum trim, and the prop brand/model, with pitch and diameter. Load characteristics, such as # persons on board, and whether equipped with T-top or not would be helpful. Thanks!