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FullThrottle

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About FullThrottle

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia Beach
  • Interests
    fishing, family boating

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  1. I no longer have a Robalo, but since no one has responded I thought I'd give you an idea of a possibility.
  2. FullThrottle

    Waves

    Trolling 40 miles offshore in my R207 when a thunderstorm in the distance kicked up the waves a bit.
  3. I added several things to the switches (autopilot, underwater LEDs and a mounted light). After figuring out what switch type I had I went to https://www.carlingtech.com and found my switch diagram. Hooked up the hot side to the switch and the return to the buss bar. The switch was already hooked to a circuit breaker so I didn't need to add a fuse or CB. You may be able to look at how other things are hooked up and determine which connector to use.
  4. I’m sure by now yours is a bit faded, so the factory color wouldn’t match. I’ve had fiberglass work on 2different color boats and a good fiberglass guy can match it up fine.
  5. I wish boat dealers were like car dealers. I've bought my last few cars over 100 miles from my local dealers as I could get a better deal there. No complaints when I bring the car in for warranty work locally. Boats, however, are a different game altogether. Local dealers have an exclusive arrangement with the manufacturer. There are no 'lemon' laws with boats, so if you get a lemon, you are stuck with it. If your local dealer won't fix your issues, you're stuck with it. Rarely will a manufacturer intercede to help a buyer with a dealer issue. On my current boat the local (over 80 mi
  6. You've got about what Ken at PropGods told me I'd get at a cost of $465, hence I didn't go to Stainless on my 150. I had stainless duoprops on my Albemarle, but it made sense as the boat was over 11K pounds and each engine was over 250HP. However, my repairs for a dinged prop was about $500 and a week downtime. Glad you got a better hole shot. I've considered a 4 blade prop to achieve better hole shot and lower plane speed, but I"m still working on the Admiral to get a Sharrow prop. Hard to justify the cost, but sure would love the performance and fuel savings.
  7. I removed the plate mounts and found they were not caulked at all so water was leaking in around the plates, not so much due to the seals. You might want to check that if you haven't already. You can use silicone grease on the O rings and that should also help. Beyond that, I'd just replace them with something better.
  8. No, your batteries shouldn't be dead. However, was the battery switch left on? Is it in the water and maybe the bilge pump ran a lot? I've had all my recent boats in a boatel and even left for several months the batteries rarely drop below 13 volts and still have lots of amps left. Battery switch is always off when stored and no rain in storage so I don't expect the batteries to drop. If your switch is off and bilge isn't running your battery must have some type of electrical drain going on or you've got bad batteries. Probably something is pulling the batteries down and the way to determ
  9. I'd be interested to see if what I've read holds up. What boat do you have?
  10. Can only tell you about R207. The cup holders in the front were tubed to move water to the front of the center storage area which would eventually get to the bilge. However, it kept center storage wet and mildew was a constant problem. When I added forward rod holders I tubed those down to the drain at the rear of the center storage and then did the same for the cup holders. Improved the mildew tremendously. Yes, it will all get into the bilge. How it gets there can be simple or like on the R207 have something that keeps some water where you don't want it. If the boat is on a trailer, pul
  11. My R207 had several places designed to leak. I tried several different high density foam tapes. This one is the only one I can find right now and it was 'okay': https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005202X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did find a better one, but I don't remember where right now. I was hoping you'd get someone else to answer, but figured you'd rather have this than nothing. Good luck.
  12. I took my R207 up to 40 miles offshore often. With trim tabs I could smooth the ride out and still have people (and their teeth) in the bow in choppy water. I pulled 2 kids quite often in a towable with a 150HP. The waves are regularly over a foot where I normally go out, and it handled that fine. I can't address your expectation and conditions, but I downsized from a 28' Albemarle and wasn't unhappy with the R207. I upsized to a 24' dual console Sailfish at my wife's insistence. When all of our local family, 6 adults and 4 kids wanted to go on the boat the R207 seating wasn't good. With
  13. Those costs are not unrealistic. VERY few small boats have AIS send. You'll save about 1k by removing the send capability. I have VHS/AIS receive radio ( Standard Horizon GX2200) and tie it into the Garmin plotter to show received AIS. Have a Garmin Fantom 24" radar I installed. Battery Charger came with the boat. The AIS is useful offshore to warn via an alarm when ships getting close and I only use inshore to see the ship/boat's name in case I want to call them. I don't recommend Garmin radio, but a Garmin chartplotter and radar are fine. I also have an autopilot so I don't have to stee
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