FullThrottle

Members
  • Content count

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About FullThrottle

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Virginia Beach
  • Interests fishing, family boating

Recent Profile Visitors

1,354 profile views
  1. R160 in ocean?

    Off Virginia Beach I've seen small bass boats, small aluminum and small fiberglass boats - but all within a mile or two offshore and normally in groups with other boats. Near the entrance of the Chesapeake Bay, I've seen them and kayaks up and down the 19 mile bridge tunnel tunnel, but always close to the bridge and islands where they could quickly head in or to the lee side of an island if a storm came up. You will have to learn what you feel comfortable with. When I first got my R207 I intentionally took it out in 4 to 4 1/2 foot steep waves while wearing an auto-inflate PFD that has an EPIRB attached. I got beat up, but the boat did great. Since then I've taken it over 40 miles offshore many times on fairly calm days. Even with good weather predicted I got caught in a rough thunderstorm and was happy I'd run the boat in rough water before. I knew I was in for a bad ride home, but I knew I was going to get there. Hopefully someone with a 160 will chime in. Enjoy your boat.
  2. 2017 R302

    I don't see the 302 yet on Yamaha's site, but they do have the R300 from 2013 and that should provide some numbers that I would expect the 302 to have. They have both with 250s and 300s. http://yamahaoutboards.com/owner-resources/performance-bulletins then select V6 Offshore, Offshore Center Console and Robalo. Hope this helps.
  3. Robalo R242

    Had twins before and have a single engine now. Sort of simple for me, but everyone has a different situation. First, I agree that if possible digital is the way to go. Now as to duel engines or single engine: Most of the offshore charter boats in our area are single engine. They go 80-100 miles offshore regularly. I originally wanted 2 engines for safety and security (even had 2 separate fuel tanks). Realized later that means twice the maintenance costs too. Yes, it is much easier to dock with two engines, but I can do quite well with one. Sea Tow in our area will go out and get you if your engine(s) fail, so I think on a 24 footer a single should be fine. And a single engine will save you some weight on the transom as well. Just an opinion based on my experiences and it may not fit your particular needs. Put the duel engine boat up for sale in part due to the maintenance costs. Figured after replacing one engine with over 1100 hours the second one wouldn't be far behind.
  4. Best transducer location?

    Properly mounted there should be no spray. Only issue I have with transom mount is it loses bottom when I go above cruising speed. I know people who have placed their pickup lower in the water to get pickup at higher speeds and have spray, but put a diverter around it to keep spray out of the boat. On my previous boat I had an in-hull. It did fine up to about 600 feed, but then lost bottom. Didn't have downvision on it, so I can't address that. If I was going to do anything different, I'd do a thru-hull. Not sure what a transom transducer would do acting as an in-hull transducer. Maybe someone else can address this.
  5. aluminum vs. stainless props

    You should probably talk with Ken at PropGods http://www.propgods.com/Content2/Default.aspx His advice to me on going stainless with my 150 was I could spend several hundred dollars and maybe get 1MPH more. I checked Yamaha stats on a 150 with aluminum and stainless and there was very little difference on a boat my size and weight. The aluminum performed better in cruising ranges and stainless a little better at WOT, but not worth it in my opinion. Most stuff I've read says aluminum is the way to go up to a 250 if you're looking at both performance and speed although I might seriously consider stainless on a 200. I had dual stainless on my previous boat and once dinged it cost $500 to fix. For the slight damage, if it had been aluminum I'd have either fixed it myself, or had it fixed/replaced for less than 1/2 the cost. Worth considering.
  6. R207 without Trim Tabs

    Here's a few ideas I wrote up for an R207. http://robaloboatowners.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6256 Have done a bit since I wrote up how to 'fix' a few issues with the R207, and they are on the forum as well. The trim tabs have really helped and I think they should be standard on this boat, or at a minimum the dealer should be told to offer them. My dealer didn't want to sell them either, so I put them on myself. I recommend you get the short Lenco's that are for the R207 if you plan to use the ladder. The standard size trim tabs could easily catch toes when boarding.
  7. 207R - give me your advice

    From Garelick who I believe makes the R207 seat mounts:" I do not think that handle assembly is something that we produced." I've checked with a few people and everyone so far thinks it's a one off design and no one I've contacted knows anyone who makes them. I may just put a bolt in mine if I can't find a better design. I know where I like the seat and I'd rather have it unmovable than have it slide back in rough water.
  8. Buying a new r242

    Your question is a good one and there are several things to consider. First, the 150s use mechanical controls and the 300 is digital. I haven't driven a digital yet, but I understand once you do you don't want to go back to mechanical controls. So, the 300 provides better throttle control and instruments. However, from owning a boat with twin engines, you get a couple of advantages. One is piece of mind that a single engine failure doesn't leave you dead in the water and another is ease of docking and maneuvering. A downside is twice the cost of regular maintenance. As far as lower speed planing, your trim tabs, engine trim and weight distribution will determine that. The twins would have some negative impact as they weigh 480 lbs each and the 300 is 562 lbs. I'm no expert, but if low speed planing was one of my main goals I'd go for the single 300. Hopefully someone else will chime in with some better expert advice or actual experience. Good luck and enjoy the boat.
  9. ..Curious, Do you use your live well, ...Mine does not drain well at all,  (only  when underway)  ..and your drain  looks the same position as mine.

    1. wildoats
    2. FullThrottle

      FullThrottle

      Yes, I use my livewell a lot at certain times of the year. It drains fine and usually on the way to the dock when running in the no wake zone I release any left over bait and remove the pipe so it can drain by the time I get there. Never had a problem with it draining except the first time when the flap was stuck closed.

      I've also drained it at the dock without a problem. Other than the flap not operating smoothly I can't think of a reason yours shouldn't drain since the livewell itself is above the waterline. I've run the pump while at dock and and it hasn't overrun the livewell. Only thing I've done to the livewell is remove about  1 inch of the pipe so I can close the lid to the livewell without having to fully screw the pipe in place.

      When on a wash rack at the boatel, I can wash it out with the hose at full pressure and no water ever gathers in the bottom of the livewell.

      Good luck. I'm sure it frustrating not having it drain.

  10. Best transducer location?

    If your prop is a standard rotation most people put them on the starboard side. What is important is to try to get it in 'undisturbed' water. You want to locate it so that it's in the clearest water you can find while operating at cruising speed. The less bubbles the better. I played around with mine after attaching a piece of starboard (used 5200 on screws and 4200 on the entire board) to the clearest area I could find. Took a bit to get height and angle adjusted and like most transom transducers, I do lose the signal at high speed, but it works fine at cruising and lower speed. Having the starboard block allows me to move it on the board without having to drill into the transom and the screws aren't locked down on the transducer with anything since they don't penetrate into the hull at all.
  11. Automatic Trim Tabs

    Suggest you read http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/493544-bennett-slt-self-leveling-tabs.html and there are other discussions as well. My tabs are not automatic, so not much I could add that would help your decision.
  12. Menhaden Allocation

    The company Omega out of Reedsville, VA fishes for menhaden in Chesapeake Bay (Virginia is the ONLY east coast state allowing menhaden fishing in state waters). Once they clean out the bay (or most of it) they head out to sea and fish the east coast of Virginia. Removing so many menhaden fish from Chesapeake Bay and the mouth of the bay in the Virginia Beach area impacts several species of fish that are dependent on menhaden for food. As I understand it, states other than Virginia are rich in menhaden and the fish that follow the menhaden. We used to have an excellent fall and winter striper season, but no longer. We still get striper, but nowhere near the numbers we had 10 years ago when Virginia Beach was the place to come for winter fishing. I can't say for sure if the Omega fishing boats are the problem, or the large numbers of humpback whales that are now gobbling up menhaden (and every thing else) by the ton, or something else altogether. I just question why the current allocations don't take hatcheries like the Chesapeake Bay and the rivers feeding it separate from the Atlantic Coast. Since Virginia Lawmakers have decided not to allow Virginia Marine fisheries to manage menhaden in Virginia, I'm hoping the ASMFC will step in and protect the Bay and the many fish that are dependent on menhaden. I want my grandchildren to enjoy the type of fishing I've had and worry the over-fishing of menhaden in Chesapeake Bay will keep that from occurring. And, I miss having to break the ice off my reels occasionally while striper fishing.
  13. Automatic bilge and engine flush

    My foot switch is just forward of the pump motor. I think I can answer your question concerning water accumulation. The hose from the pump goes up in order to pump the water above the water line. The pump requires water to be able to pump (can't push air). So even if the pump pushed all the water out of the bilge, when it cuts off the water left in the hose would drain back down into the bilge. The foot switch is set to allow water accumulation so the pump doesn't constantly cycle as hose water reenters the bilge. So once you have water in the bilge, there will always be some there unless you manually remove it. I used to sponge it out in my previous boat where I had good access to the bilge. However, I can't reach low enough in my current bilge to sponge it. Since it's almost never dry I end up spraying and cleaning up mildew once or twice a year. I should add the boat is dry stored in a boatel and due to the occasional high humidity inside the boatel I'd have some mildew anyway, but I'm sure the water in the bilge doesn't help.
  14. Automatic bilge and engine flush

    I only eyeballed the wire, but I think it's 16 as called for by the pump and is less than 5 feet in length. I changed the 3amp to a 5amp as that was all I had and no one locally had a 3amp breaker of that type (including the Robalo dealer). They ordered me a 3amp, but when it arrived it was a slip on connector and it needs a screw on connector. I don't blame the dealer, finding the correct P/N for electrical parts on a Robalo is difficult. At the time doing the math showed me that even an 18 gauge at less than 5 feet is sufficient for a 5amp breaker - unless I've made a mistake. To ensure I didn't make a mistake, I checked the internet wire gauge charts http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/, it appears to back up an 18 gauge as okay for 5amp at that length and longer, although I'm pretty sure it's 16 gauge as required by the pump so a 5amp is fine for the wire size. Further investigation after your comment shows that the original pump (Rule 25D 500GPH) requires a 2.5 amp fuse. So the 5amp is okay for the wire, but not the pump. If I had longer arms I'd upgrade the pump to 800GPH which uses 5amp as I'd like a more robust pump. However, since I can't reach the pump for replacement, I'll now be looking for a 2.5amp CB as required by Rule. So, thanks for questioning my amp increase. I hadn't looked up the pump until now. Although I was correct for the wire size, both Robalo and I were incorrect for the CB size based on Rule's requirements. Hoping I can find a 2.5 that fits. Maybe Robalo can comment on why they used a 3amp?
  15. 207R - give me your advice

    Much as I'd love to go to Vancouver it probably won't happen this year, but I will try to contact them. Thanks for getting back with me.