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About LFW

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    San Francisco Bay Area

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  1. I have the push buttons and think they’re pretty flimsy—have dents in some of the more used buttons and I haven’t been doing anything abnormal with them. They also don’t light up so it’s easy to forget that things are left on when pulling back to the dock. I’m actually looking to swap mine out for some that light up when depressed.
  2. Just for added info, I have a 2019 R180/115 with the stock aluminum prop. Its a 13.25x16 which seems to work well in calm water but in bigger water with a loaded boat, tends to struggle to get traction. I have been looking at moving to a 4-blade SS prop from Turning Point (TP) to aide with the rougher water running. The TP prop calculator suggests a 14x13 4-blade. The standard method for determining pitch when switching from 3-4 blades is a decrease of 2" in pitch. As you can see from their suggestion, the pitch is decreased by 3" in this case but that is also a result of a slightly larger diameter--increasing diameter should also result in less pitch. So, the way they have it figured, an increase in diameter of 3/4" necessitates a 1" decrease in pitch and the switch from 3 blades to 4 blades necessitates the other 2" decrease in pitch. I haven't tried this prop yet but the math seems to work out. They also offer a $35 prop exchange.
  3. Update...I found out over at The Hull Truth that "newer" Robalos all come with the Command Link (CL) setup except use CL round gauges instead of the CL MFD. The NMEA 2000 plug inside my cowl is the correct cable and it is already in use, by design. What I'll need to do is replace a little plug adapter inside the console with the Yamaha CL Hub (around $50) THEN use the Lowrance cable from the hub to the NMEA 2000 network. https://www.thehulltruth.com/13139166-post22.html
  4. I think I need to post some pics for clarification: The first link is a photo of the first connector the orange cable connects to. From there, it connects to a large block connector that then feeds data to the two gauges--that can be seen in the second photo. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kK0l-nx9L6lRibUxGfBO5oE4s4TvcIUo/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IKcf0RQiUD6m2DiIJebraaeW52xW6upI/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qcODentC1xaqTXyk1JT2jz_V8ko2KI7e/view?usp=sharing I believe the connector in the last photo is the NMEA 2000 connector that the interface cable is supposed to plug into--the problem is that it's not just sitting there, it's being used and when I trace that cable up into the console, it becomes clear that Robalo wired it to the gauges. I've either not been able to locate the unused interface cable plug OR it's already being used. if it's the latter, I'll need to find a 'Y' splitter somewhere so I can plug the Lowrance interface cable into the engine NMEA cable.
  5. I'll take a look again, maybe I just din't find the the NEMA connector in the motor, which is most of the reason for my post--I thought I found it because it's all I could find that looked like the correct connector but was puzzled that it was already being used when all posts says that it's unused. I'd post pics but the forum is telling me 370Kb max file size--is there another way to post pics on this forum?
  6. LFW

    T-Top benefits?

    Thanks, that helps.
  7. LFW

    R180 Trailer

    Please report back on the double-sided foam tape. I have a feeling that it will be trickier than it sounds because if your grab rail studs are like mine, they don't align perfectly with the the drilled holes in the console and will likely cause a tougher time sliding the studs through due to the holes in the washers being smaller than the drilled holes in the console. Regarding the plate idea--there would be two plates. One plate would mount permanently to the console using some or all of the grab bar and windshield bolt holes using countersunk flat head hex key bolts--that plate would also have studs permanently attached that would stick up toward the driver. The second plate would have the grab bar and windshield permanently attached to it and would have holes corresponding to the stud locations--likely four of them. Large plastic and brass thumb nuts could be used to fasten the two plates together--the plates could even be powder coated what to match the boat--would look factory.
  8. LFW

    T-Top benefits?

    Can anyone with a R180 or R200 with a factory T-Top comment to whether they actually see a benefit in some way? I didn't order one with my 180 because I garage it and already need to remove the windshield but I've already designed a folding stainless unit that the windshield would mount to that would allow me to collapse the whole system by removing four "fasteners", but before I move forward, I would like to know if building it would actually provide some actual benefit. I've been taking my wife and two kids (age 9 & 13) with me on fishing trips and it seems like there is never enough room on the boat when dealing with the fish on the deck--especially in high swell conditions (6'+). Aside from the added weight and surface area for the wind to grab on to, would the legs of the top take away precious space and not provide any appreciable benefit(s)? So far I have-- Pros: Provide shade (?) Provide storage for PFDs Provide elevated location for VHF antenna Provide quicker way to lower boat height to fit in garage Cons: Add weight Add cost Takes up deck space Decrease boating and trailering performance Please share your experience with your T-Tops. I'd also be interested to know if you previously owned a boat with a top and have a boat without a top now, what your preference is (and visa-versa). Thanks and happy boating.
  9. LFW

    T-Top removal

    I'm not sure, I ordered my 180 without one but I would hope that they are through-bolted with backing plates, or at least, fender washers.
  10. I think there is a misunderstanding of the stated question and issue... I already purchased the Lowrance Yamaha interface cable and opened up the motor cover to connect it to the "unused" NMEA2000 interface plug only to find that the plug wasn't unused, it was connected to the Yamaha digital round multi-function gauges. The cable was attached to the NMEA plug in the motor, fished through the flex tube into the hull, from there it was pushed up into the cable conduit. I tugged on the cable (in the battery compartment) and found that they had connected it to an orange cable (no plug, just connected and taped). That orange cable (looks like a fat twisted pair Ethernet cable) comes out inside the console where it connects to a big plug that then is connected to a 'Y' plug connector that is attached to both of the multi-function gauges and has wires that come out and connect to a few other things. I guess the big (and hopefully simple) question is, is that normal or do I have the wrong plug identified as the NMEA plug in the motor? I didn't see anything else that looked remotely close to the same plug.
  11. LFW

    Coyote trailer bunks

    I have to agree with Weakfish, the lags look like they were replaced. When my trailer was recently damaged by a car rear-ending it, I was in contact with Lee Money and others at Coyote--they were responsive and polite. I also think the trailer for my R180 is relatively well built. However, when I repaired my trailer, I made new bunk brackets and swapped out the lags for SS carriage bolts. I counter-bored the holes and then filled in over the top of the bolt heads with wood glue to get rid of the pocket for water (dried and sanded glue flush) before putting the carpet back on. The bunks were some sort of southern heart pine that was heavier and harder than expected and were in good shape--although they are from a 2019 trailer.
  12. Something is wrong if 30MPH is max at WOT--have you played with the motor trim while under way? You can watch speed increase/decrease and fuel mileage increase/decrease just by playing with motor trim. I have a 2019 R180 with a 115 and aluminum prop--hits 40MPH at WOT on GPS with just me and some gear in the boat in very light chop--haven't had it out on anything glassy smooth. I plan to get a 4 blade SS prop because I don't usually operate at WOT and 40 is too fast for sloppy conditions (normal for SF bay area). 20-30 is the sweet spot for me based on water conditions and I could use a little bit more responsive prop with less slip when wife and kids are in the boat.
  13. I already got it without it--that's the thing. I ordered a Yamaha cable and pulled everything apart at the engine to fish it through but the connector was already in use. I followed the wire up and it splits off a bunch of ways but it ultimately feeds the stock digital round gauges. Is there a pre-wired splice plug that can be used inside the engine that would allow the engine plug to feed data to both the stock round gauges and to the Garmin chart-plotter?
  14. LFW

    R180 Trailer

    The cabinet latches are a good idea. I have already swapped out the standard nuts for stainless wing nuts for the windshield but the washer stack is still a little annoying when breaking it back down--I almost always drop one of the little split washers. For the grab bar, I replaced the front two studs with Allen bolts and still use the back four studs but have them threaded all the way into the grab bar. Getting my hands past the drain tubes is a bit tight and I have to leave the padded vanity panel off to access them. I have also added 7/8" OD rubber washer over the studs. It's not pretty but I just leave the vanity panel off the whole time to provide easier access. I'm thinking of cutting two aluminum plates--mount one down permanently to the console with studs sticking up. The windshield and grab bar would bolt to the second plate and would have holes in it for the studs in the first plate--that would move all of the disassembly to the top and four bolts would remove the grab bar and windshield at the same time--and I could put the vanity panel back in and leave it in.
  15. What do you get with this option (I just noticed it's not available on their website anymore)? I ordered my '19 R180 without it, figuring I could add it myself later but the Yamaha gauges are using the connector inside the motor housing. Does it provide extra information that the Yamaha digital gauges don't provide? I can easily add a NMEA 2000 backbone for other items but I'm wondering if there is any advantage to tying the motor to the network. Anyone have any insight on this?
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