Jump to content

haz

Members
  • Content count

    382
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by haz

  1. haz

    reset fuel gage in R247

    Refer to page 22 of the Command Link Plus LCD Display Manual (PDF download) if your R247 is equipped with this gauge... Refer to page 40 of the Command Link Square Gauges Manual (PDF download) if your R247 is equipped with this gauge... Good luck!
  2. haz

    Trolling Motor Install on R200

    With the battery tray arrangement and mounting hole pattern that was fully internal to the trays' footprint, every hole I drilled went to air space beneath the console floor. I used 3/4" long screws that no doubt protrude into that air space, ensuring the full thickness of the Perma Panel is utilized by the full height of the screw thread. I'm curious why, with a F150 on your R180, you're not mounting your second battery in the vacant stern jump seat compartment, consistent with Robalo's two-battery option? Good luck!
  3. haz

    Trolling Motor Install on R200

    In all of my reading of online boating discussions over the past six years, I have viewed many photos of supplemental battery installations in various Robalo models which are essentially identical to the above photo, and I've not ever heard an owner complain that a battery broke loose from its mount. The console compartment floor of our R180 is 3/8" to 1/2" Perma Panel that provided very solid bite to the #12 screws securing the three aluminum trays containing strapped-in Group 31 AGMs in a slightly different arrangement, with one on either side of the porta-potti and one transverse beneath the console step, if only because I need more leg room when I am 'seated'... Good luck!
  4. haz

    Trolling Motor Install on R200

    Partial ABYC Standard E-10, Storage Batteries... 10.7.4 Batteries, as installed shall be restrained to not move more than one inch (25mm) in any direction when a pulling force of twice the battery weight is applied through the center of gravity of the battery as follows: 10.7.4.1 vertically for a duration of one minute, and 10.7.4.2 horizontally and parallel to the boat's centerline, for a duration of one minute fore and one minute aft, and 10.7.4.3 horizontally and perpendicular to the boat's centerline for a duration of one minute to starboard and one minute to port. Good luck!
  5. haz

    Back Seat

    Forum member Hanapaa suffered a similar weld failure on the stern seat of his 2017 R302. This post with photos describes the original failure and this post with photo describes the warranty repair made by his dealer. Since you're not the original owner -- and you lack a constructive relationship with your local Robalo dealer, your best advocate may be Forum member Joebalo, a Robalo Factory sales manager who has assisted many Robalo owners with their boat issues by serving as a Factory liaison to a local dealer. I have PM'd Joe, asking him to review this discussion. Joe's a busy guy, but hopefully, he will weigh in. Good luck!
  6. haz

    R200 Electronics Box for T-Top

    Forum member npost recently posted paying his dealer $500 for Robalo's aluminum electronics box, with a final shipping charge of $156, which was $100 more than the dealer's original shipping cost estimate. Good luck!
  7. haz

    Head Compartment Key

    For future reference... Link to Southco door latch/lock brochure (PDF download) Link to Southco-Mobella pre-cut key source + Amazon Good luck!
  8. haz

    Gelcoat question

    crashl is correct, that ridge you describe is called a strake, which projects downward from the bottom surface of the hull... The following cropped image of this online his-res photo of a R200 on a Robalo-supplied Coyote trailer shows the position of the trailer bunk (green line) inboard of the strake (red line)... The following cropped image of this hi-res online photo of the same R200 shows the port side strake (red line) entirely outboard of the trailer bunk, with no portion of the strake resting on the trailer bunk... And finally, the following cropped image of this remaining hi-res online image of the same R200 may also be useful toward seeing how the trailer bunks (green lines) positioned to contact the broader flat surface of the hull, inboard of the port & starboard strakes (red lines), may help to center the stern on the trailer as it settles onto the bunks when you pull up the launch ramp... Great catch, crashl ! Good luck!
  9. haz

    Gelcoat question

    This gel coat repair kit should provide you a good color match. I would look more closely for a potential rub point on the trailer, in-line with the scrape, because it seems unlikely the carpeted bunk would cause that degree of damage. Good luck!
  10. haz

    R300 Horrible fuel burn

    Yamaha Performance Bulletin - R300 w twin 350s (PDF download) Ken Reeves at Prop Gods is the best source for prop advice. Ken offers propping advice on the Band of Boaters Performance & Handling Forum, which also includes his business contact info. Good luck!
  11. haz

    R200 - 150 or 200HP?

    If you choose the standard Yamaha 150 for your R200, we've added a Mercury Revolution 4 stainless prop (14 5/8 X 17) and our R180 almost immediately hops onto plane without any trim tab usage, due to the stern lift provided by this 4-blade prop. Good luck!
  12. haz

    2019 206s dashboard

    While your 206 Cayman S gauges have chrome surrounds, hopefully they function as described in this Yamaha CommandLink Multi-Function Meter Manual (PDF download). Good luck!
  13. haz

    Tackle drawers under my R200 leaning post

    Additional photos of first unit pictured above with mounting details have surfaced on The Hull Truth Boating Forum's Robalo Cayman Thread, here, here, and here. Good luck!
  14. Innovative Lighting's 011 Series, available direct from the manufacturer or via Amazon in white, should be a dimensional match.. Replacing the livewell unit is an easy reach thru the port side stern jump seat compartment... Removing the forward rod storage tube yields a just-under three inch hole which is two inches above the courtesy light's retaining nut, and the wiring harness pulls thru for easy disconnection & reattachment... An offset wrench may be needed to break the retaining nut loose, unless you have hands that'll fit inside the hole. Adding a stack of hardware store parts bin nylon washers beneath the new unit's retaining nut could make it easier to tighten, by moving the nut closer to the end of the threads. Good luck!
  15. kingrex: The following is a reply from Forum member wildoats... "My boat is a 2012, and of course not covered,.. this was almost three seasons ago.. but the dealer did work work me as a 2012 known issue ( plus other years too)... theIr vinyl IS poor.... .anyhow,... I recall all the new covers were about $500.00 and minimal to have them stapled on. I'm very careful with the updated covers too...as I believe it's the same stuff. I see the 2019 material is finally nice........ hope this helps" Good luck!
  16. haz

    Is there any plywood in a R180

    Robalo uses Perma Panel, which is a premium-grade marine plywood that is lifetime warrantied against rot by the product manufacturer. Perma Panel informational flyer (PDF download), specification sheet (PDF download), and manufacturer's warranty (PDF download). To address your other hull questions, the following images are from a Robalo publication describing build quality & component specifications... You can assess what optional equipment the R180 may have using this 2013 Robalo full product line brochure (PDF download). You can get a look at below-deck structures shown in photos in this 2013 R180 Parts Manual (PDF download). You may also enjoy reviewing this 2013 R180 Owners Manual (PDF download). I'm a satisfied owner of a 2013 R180, which we ordered new, supplied on a Karavan single axle aluminum I-beam trailer for which parts are readily available online. The R180 is a good, heavy, high free board hull that benefits from the extra power of Yamaha 150 and rides better with trim tabs, if so equipped. As long as the bilge-mounted raw water pump thru-hull fitting and the transom drain plug are leak free, the majority of bilge water should be rainwater thru the stern jump seat compartments and possibly the console drink holders, and possibly deck wash water through the console door threshold and/or the deck plate beneath the leaning post. It would be useful to pour some water into the bow anchor locker to verify that compartment is sealed and draining only thru the chrome fitting on the starboard side of the bow. The fishbox beneath the forward casting deck lid drains through the stainless fitting near the waterline on the starboard midship hullside. It would also be useful to pour some water onto the floor of the main console compartment to verify the drainage from the bow to the center bilge at the stern, since the fore-to-aft drainage path is past the aluminum fuel tank beneath the console and thru drain holes in two separate bulkheads. Unscrewing the engine splashwell deck plate will provide you a better view into the bilge and a glimpse of the bilge pump and raw water pumps. The stock raw water pump is good for the livewell, but does poorly with a hose for washdown purposes... If the R180 has the optional washdown hose fitting at deck level on the port side, it's easy enough to add a supplemental washdown pump that's not too costly. Feel free to ask any other questions that surface as you proceed in your investigation. Good luck!
  17. Notifying Blue Sea Systems (via Conductor@Bluesea.com or TechSupport@Bluesea.com) to send you another no-cost replacement m-Series 6007 switch would be a prudent move, given your described off-angle switch placement required for 'Battery 1' to operate. Other Forum members have had revised design switches on newer boats also fail. Additionally, putting a square throwable cushion on the deck in front of the jump seat makes removing the battery switch plate somewhat easier on the knees. I had similar concerns about the problem's root cause when you first mentioned needing to, once again, replace the battery switch. Can you please confirm that the courtesy light you describe is the one inside the livewell, which energizes when the raw water pump is running, versus the Port & Starboard cockpit courtesy lights that are switched on the Port side of console, separate from the Raw Water pump switch? Also, with the battery switch in the 'Off' position, only your R180's bilge pump via the float switch should be operative. Is the livewell courtesy light and the raw water pump operating as-if on low voltage with the battery switch in the 'Off' position? Or, is the port courtesy light and the raw water pump operating as-if on low voltage only when the battery switch in the Battery 1 or Battery 2 positions with the Raw Water console switch pointing to the Port side of the boat? Depending upon your answers, checking the Raw Water console switch using a continuity tester and/or multi-meter with the battery switch in the 'Off' position would be helpful to assess the potential of the Raw Water console dash switch feeding a resisted voltage across failed contacts despite being in the 'Off' position. Good luck!
  18. haz

    Boat plug

    I'm guessing those lower thru-hull fittings are drains for the below-deck compartment with the hinged lid -- a fish well perhaps -- that is forward of the transom. You may be able to use an appropriately sized rubber expansion plug to close off the drain opening in the bottom of the fish well... ...however, as FullThrottle encouraged caution on the risk of trapped water if a wave or wake broke over your 2160's relatively open transom, plugging the drain could result in a below-deck fish box full of water that wouldn't drain at speed until you pull the plug. You would benefit from joining the other Robalo Owners Forum, which specializes in earlier model year Robalos, and where forum admin 2-N-Tow also owns a 2160 and other experienced 2160 owners actively participate on the Walk Arounds Forum. Good luck!
  19. haz

    Boat plug

    The following are online images of the transom on a 1994 Robalo 2160 -- is this what you have?... Good luck!
  20. haz

    R180 in garage

    Have you considered making your R180's ski-tow bracket removable, possibly per the below photo... ...where the legs of the main hoop are cut at some point above the aft-facing dogleg framing (red ovals) and having an appropriately sized solid aluminum plug or thick-wall tubing (green cylinders) fabricated, such that the plug/tubing is mounted inside the vertical hoop and it slips down inside the original support framing, with all of this bolted thru cross-drilled holes (black hexes) in the assemblies. Removing the horizontal cross-screws from the original support framing would allow removal of the main hoop, enabling passage beneath the less-high garage door. It may be cheaper to have a local fabricator do something like this than to pay for year-round storage -- unless your R180 is going into a relative's or friend's garage. Good luck!
  21. haz

    Ignition Fuse location

    Try looking just forward of the battery switch, mounted on the same vertical star board surface, you should see a 50-amp fuse in a holder with a clear plastic cover... Good luck!
  22. haz

    Trim Tab Fault as Startup

    Lenco LED Indicator Switch troubleshooting guide (PDF download) Good luck!
  23. haz

    R180 Trailer

    LFW: Forum member MAS' comments & linked photos in the R180 in garage discussion thread may be useful toward lowering the bunks and using a drop-down hitch draw bar to get beneath your 7-foot garage opening without removing the compass. If you are removing & reinstalling the windshield & grab bar assembly more frequently than at the beginning & end of the boating season, it may be worth the likely $525 cost of eliminating those original parts by retrofitting with an optional Fold Down Windshield and Grab Rail assembly, if you can afford it. Good luck!
  24. Just to ensure you have it for the wiring diagrams in the latter pages, link to 2013 R180 & R200 Owners Manual (PDF Download). My first impression is possibly a grounding issue, where the circuits are being back-fed through the ground side of the wiring. I'll do some poking around inside my R180 to see if I can come up with something more. Just for information's sake, are you still running the original bilge-mounted Shurflo Bait Sentry raw water pump for the livewell / washdown outlet? Good luck!
  25. haz

    Tackle drawers under my R200 leaning post

    I expect BoatOutfitters would retain dimensional data on their past builds, probably cataloged by customer identity and perhaps by boat brand & model, which may allow you to receive a reliable price quote for a unit with your preferred features. The first tackle unit was installed on a 246 Cayman with a flip-up bolster leaning post. The second unit was described as being installed on a Cayman with a factory installed wider-than-standard leaning post. I have read in the past that deck mounting dimensions for flip-up bolster leaning posts differ from standard non-flip-up bolster leaning posts. I would be reluctant to order a multi-thousand-dollar custom unit without physically verifying that my leaning post's dimensions match a manufacturer's past-used data. The risk would be Robalo or their seat frame manufacturer instituted an engineering change within or between model years or across boat models that would cause the custom unit to not fit or not mount-up as built. Maybe it's just me, but I would do a 6-hour round-trip drive to be certain of the measurements. Measure twice, cut once, as carpenters say. Good luck!
×