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About haz

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    2013 R180, Yamaha 150

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  1. Forum member 2-N-Tow also offered a reply on the other Robalo Owners forum. Good luck!
  2. Joe: I'm a long-time follower of the valuable advocacy you've provided to Robalo owners through other discussion sites. Wholeheartedly, thank you for your ongoing participation on this Robalo Owners Forum. Good luck!
  3. From the photo, it appears water is standing in the livewell drain fitting, perhaps enhanced by the weight of your bow-mounted trolling motor and the batteries you added in the console of your R160, moving the livewell floor closer to the waterline. I don't expect your dealer suggested putting sealant over the crack to make the livewell usable, but rather to prevent any backflow through the drain from leaking past the crack and into the bilge. I would be reluctant to cover up the crack with anything until a clear & formal approval of your warranty claim is provided by Robalo. Instead, I would either leave the stand pipe screwed into the drain fitting, or buy a rubber plug to keep sea water from rising into the livewell. If they're going to replace the livewell tub, they'll at least be removing the console module from the deck insert, judging from this photo... Good luck!
  4. After viewing Robalo's new flip-up footrest option on a 2018 R202 Explorer at my local Robalo dealer, I decided to add one to our 2013 R180's leaning post, which was not constructed by Robalo's current leaning post supplier, Coyote Manufacturing. The all-aluminum anodized footrest (part # CHAP 06.00379) cost $350 + $40 shipping + sales tax. The parts supplied are elegant in their design and construction, including a welded footrest assembly comprised of an outer hoop of 1 1/4" tubing with two 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" crossbars having ridged tops and smooth polished undersides; two 2-piece integral-hinged clamp-on mounts; two sheets of rubber gasketing; all stainless steel fasteners; and a white HDPE marine board strap holder with retaining strap... For the function it performs, the retaining strap holder is elaborately fashioned... ...due to its mounting location on the apron that surrounds the forward edges of the swing-arm retained cooler... The clamp-on mounts are sized for the 2" diameter legs of Coyote-supplied leaning posts, so it was necessary to find a suitable adapter for the 1 5/8" diameter legs of our 2013 R180's leaning post. A visit to my neighborhood hardware store yielded a rubber plumbing coupling with nearly perfect inside & outside diameters... I held the rubber coupling using the clamp-on mount and trimmed it to the proper height using a razor knife, and then cut out a vertical segment about an 1/8" wide, to compensate for the compression by the mount around the leaning post leg... Perhaps due to some nominal difference in the centerlines of the legs of the Coyote leaning post versus our 2013 leaning post, to allow the welded on ears to mesh properly with the ends of the footrest assembly, it was necessary to clamp the mounts on with a slight toe-in orientation,. This toed-in condition required adding some clearance between the components by hand filing away a small portion of the inboard side of the clamp-on mounts' ears (blue line) and a small portion of the outboard inside of the footrest assembly ends (red line)... I set the height of the footrest assembly at 5" off the deck, which is comfortable for myself (6' 2" tall) and my wife (5' 10" tall), an advantage of the clamp-on mounts that allow the footrest height to be fully personalized. With the height of the mounts set, the next step was to install the retaining strap holder & strap to securely stow the folded-up footrest. Because our R180 lacks the apron around it's cooler, which is retained by corner chocks and bungee cords, I opted to mount the strap holder vertically on the leaning post's forward horizontal crossmember. I added a 1" PVC conduit strap to retain the strap holder on the crossmember, and then cross-drilled a screw hole to eventually prevent the strap holder from rotating on the crossmember... The contour of the vertically mounted strap holder mates perfectly with the hoop and crossbar of the flipped-up footrest and it stands the assembly away from the leaning post framing to eliminate rattles, while keeping the face of the folded-up footrest flush with the leading edge of the seat cushion... Our R180 has the optional factory-installed console footrest insert, which has always seemed too low, despite our personal height. The leaning-post-mounted footrest is the better-value option, despite its slightly higher cost. This footrest easily installable, fully adjustable, quickly stowable, elegantly designed, and highly recommended. Good luck!
  5. Per the 2008 R227 Parts Guide (PDF download), listed on page 25 as "Not Pictured", that fitting is described as " WX1531B Adapter 15MM to 1/2 IN Elbow ". A web search of that description yields it being a Whale Water Systems fitting (PDF download #1) (PDF download #2), offered for sale through Amazon, iBoats, and many other marine parts outlets, in case you wish to purchase a replacement fitting online. Whale Water Systems distributor in Canada is Paynes Marine Group, whose dealer network is listed on this map, in case you prefer to buy a replacement fitting locally. Good luck!
  6. Photo of Otis' engine-mounted Minn Kota electric trolling motor... Minn Kota engine-mounted trolling motor Product Manual (PDF download). Good luck!
  7. This recent Owners Forum discussion should give you an idea what the Robalo factory T-Top mooring cover for your R202 EX would look like. Good luck!
  8. Yamaha sells their Engine Tilt Trailering Support, which is a polymer cylinder... ...that slips over one of the trim ram shafts and positively supports the outboard when trailering... Raveling Outdoors manufactures Yamaha's trailering support, and Raveling sells an identical unit, which they brand as the "M-yWedge" motor support. Raveling also sells Centering Blocks, slotted rubber rectangular blocks that slip over the hydraulic steering shafts and prevent the outboard from swinging side-to-side... When trailering our 2013 R180, we use a M-yWedge motor support and a pair of Raveling Centering Clips to keep our Yamaha F150 safe & secure. Good luck!
  9. Per this past discussion, several earlier-model-year R200 owners with this same problem determined that the cup holders just aft of the forward fish boxes drain water into the console head compartment. If you are describing that your R200 sits open to the weather except for its canvas-covered console, then it's possible that rain or other water is being funneled into your console head compartment through those forward cup holders. The mold growth you describe is especially concerning, and it's unclear if this is for you just a seasonal storage issue, or, a problem you have always experienced. If, as Otis describes, your R200 head compartment is not draining because the boat is laying bow-down on its trailer or when floating in the water, then that can be corrected by elevating the bow or redistributing gear to get any standing water to flow aft. On the other hand, if the water is not flowing out at all, then it's possible that a drain hole through one of the two bulkheads aft of your R200's fuel tank is blocked by debris or -- worst case -- was not properly drilled during the assembly process. It's been cited here as having occurred in forum member FishyPete's R180, and the production oversight was corrected by Robalo. Good luck!
  10. Hopefully, the labels added to the below image, from an R180 Parts Guide, will clarify where the fore-to-aft conduits run from the stern jump seat compartments to the center console head compartment, which Crashl mentions above... Good luck!
  11. You may wish to post your question on the other Robalo discussion site where earlier-model-year Robalo owners participate, and / or the Robalo Owners group Facebook page which has a fuller mix of model years represented. Generally, later-model-year Robalo owners participate on this Forum. Good luck!
  12. The table we installed on our R180 might be too small for your needs, and if you have rod holders on the back of your leaning post, then it's out of the question, but details & photos are in this 2016 post. Good luck!
  13. Forum member FullThrottle very nicely solved the bimini storage issue by adding two ball fittings on the deck at the stern of his R200 to accept the factory bimini top's aft support poles to stand the bimini hardware safely off his boat's gunwale, per this post and FullThrottle's linked photo below... The prospect of scratches from laid-down bimini hardware is not unique to the factory bimini. We experienced the same risk of fiberglass damage from hardware on a custom red bimini our dealer supplied for our new R180 when we first received the boat. Because we regularly trailer our R180, I needed our bimini secure and safely standing off the gunwales. I added 90-degree Tee rail fittings to the aft top supports, along with outside eye ends and deck hinges on the gunwales. Good luck!
  14. Perhaps I am not understanding Boatdogz's original post, since the source of the above image is Robalo.com's R202EX Gallery. Today, while I was researching a part for our R180 at the local Robalo dealer, I photographed a 2018 R200 on their showroom floor. Just in case you are asking about a "conventional" R200, rather than the R202EX, the below images show the dimensions and contour of the starboard face that extends vertically from the swim platform. Looking forward from stern, this vertical face is angled slightly toward the bow, with maybe a 1/2 inch radius transition to the top face of the swim platform... The full-sized version of this image can be downloaded here. Looking down, facing the stern, with aft at top of photo and forward at bottom of the photo. The vertical face has a surprising amount of contour from starboard to port... The full-sized version of this image can be downloaded here. If you are experimenting with your boat's name and want to make sure it'll fit in your preferred space, this site provides a dimensioned visual simulation of whatever name in whatever style you choose. We used them for our R180's boat name and we were very satisfied. Submitted order online on Saturday evening and it shipped on Monday afternoon. Good luck!
  15. After reading about the Broken Battery Switch syndrome in this discussion and also here, I recently discovered the battery switch on our 2013 R180 fractured while stored for the winter in our warmed garage. There was sufficient slack in the battery cables to move the electrical panel away from the bulkhead beneath the starboard stern jump seat... ...however, tension from the shorter cable on the panel may have contributed to the switch's failing... Because our R180 is beyond Robalo's warranty period, I reviewed the switch manufacturer's website and found a surprising guarantee : "Blue Sea Systems stands behind its products for as long as you own them. Blue Sea Systems will replace or issue a credit for any of its products found to be defective in materials or manufacture." After e-mailing Blue Sea Customer Service (conductor@bluesea.com) the basics of my R180 ownership and a photo of the failed M-Series dual battery switch, Blue Sea sent me a free replacement switch, which has been redesigned & significantly improved to avoid the fracturing many of us have experienced... The improved switches bear a sticker with the word "Revised"... Blue Sea also offers this advice on installation of their revised M-Series switch... m-Series Battery Switch Installation Tips Proper terminal stud torque: 120 Inch pounds max. Over torqueing will damage internal assemble bosses and lead to future failure. Wire and cable support: The wires and cables attached to the M-Switch must be supported. The case cannot support multiple large cables and may fail if cables are left hanging from the terminal studs. ABYC recommends support every 18 inches max. We recommend no strain from cables, either hanging or from tight radiuses, be allowed to exert force on the back case of the switch. Flat mounting surface: Insure mounting surface is flat. Mounting on a curved or irregular surface may distort the case when tightening fasteners. If your Robalo was originally fitted with a Blue Sea battery switch and it suffers the Broken Battery Switch syndrome outside Robalo's warranty period -- or if your dealer is too distant to return to -- then it's worthwhile to contact Blue Sea Customer Service (conductor@bluesea.com) for a free & improved replacement switch. If you've already paid for a replacement battery switch because of timing or you not knowing about Blue Sea's guarantee, then it's worthwhile to contact Blue Sea Customer Service (conductor@bluesea.com) for a possible reimbursement. Post-repair edit: On our 2013 R180, the screws used to assemble the fractured switch to the electrical panel faceplate were #8-32 flat head machine screws, while the original and revised switches are designed for #10 machine screws. Use of the undersized #8's leaves the nylon-inserted nuts freewheeling and sitting too low to get a wrench onto. If you also experience this, remove the rubber boots from the front of the circuit breakers and push them out the back of the electrical panel faceplate. This frees you to remove the electrical panel from within the starboard jump seat compartment and able to remove the undersized screws above deck. Four #10-32 x 1 1/4 machine screws and nylon-inserted nuts make installing the revised switch much easier, even though the space for reattaching the battery cables is tight. The project can be DIY if you're familiar with using 11/16 & 9/16 wrenches & sockets and a phillips screwdriver. And finally, a throwable cushion on the deck makes kneeling down much more comfortable. Good luck!