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  1. Today
  2. I believe on most if not all Robalos the console is run off a buss. That so, the circuit breaker is to ensure if multiple devices are running high, but not enough to trip their individual CB, the main helm CB will trip to protect the buss feed wires. Much better to have a CB trip than to have an overloaded wire. Of course, if other devices on the switch panel work (horn, lights, etc.) it wouldn't likely be the main helm CB, but as FoReels described it, nothing works except the engine. FoReels hasn't added any entries in the last few weeks, so perhaps he's resolved the problem. Hope so. Intermittent electrical problems can take a while to isolate, but as the problem was described a loose buss feed wire (unlikely) or defective main helm CB are the most logical places to look. If it was me, I'd tighten all the buss feeds and replace the main helm CB to start with unless I could track it back with a meter while it was failing or showed low voltage at the buss.
  3. Yesterday
  4. It's interesting that Robalo would use circuit breakers to feed devices on the console when the switch panels are all protected by a circuit breaker on each switch.
  5. The port side with the door is OK for wallets, etc. The starboard bin is a good foot rest at times. Other than that, they are worthless.
  6. Whatever motor you get, get trim tabs. you need them for unbalanced loads and cross winds.
  7. Check the helm circuit breaker on the battery switch panel.
  8. Thanks! I'll take mine out or strap them down from now on.
  9. Hope not. My horn faces down, towards the ocean.
  10. Thanks. I’ll give it another try. The first attempt at getting parts didn’t go so well. It was a bureaucratic nightmare. Picture the DMV requesting info and ordering from the VA. I finally gave up. They were more interested in selling me R200s at discounted prices that were sitting on their lot. I have another dealer in the area. Maybe they want my parts business. I would like a footrest for my console. At the end of the day though, it’s more important for me to have a large capacity, secondary bilge pump than a perfectly matching thru hull. Come to think of it, I’m going to upsize the existing bilge pump to something more appropriate for safe ocean fishing, so having the bilge thru hulls match will be easy. I’m not looking forward to doing the work though, as I can just blindly touch the hull with my fingertips as I lay across the splash well, reaching one arm into the hatch. You need to be a laparoscopic surgeon to work down there lol.
  11. https://www.coyotemfgco.com/ is the current Robalo trailer manufacturer. The trailers are bunk trailers, so if yours has bunks then you just need to space and angle them to match your boat.
  12. Recently I Purchased 2012 r200 it did not have a come with a trailer. Now I am looking to trailer the boat. I have a brand new trailer for a 24 foot scout that I also own. I am wondering if I can make adjustments to that trailer or does anyone know where I can purchase a trailer for the r200 ? I'm located in the south jersey shore area if anybody knows anyone that would be great information
  13. You can download a parts list PDF for any Robalo. Get your dealer to order one. You may pay a little more, but it will match.
  14. Hey. I going to supplement that PWC 500 GPH bilge pump with a 3700 GPH one tied into a high water alarm. Anyone know where I can find a 1 1/2” chrome (or polished stainless) thru hull that matches what the boat has now? Thanks.
  15. Last week
  16. I keep a log of everything related to the motor. My boat included a Y.E.S. 5 year warranty. I have a Yamaha shop do the maintenance for 2 reasons: 1. My boatel will not allow any fluid work done onsite. 2. So I don't have to maintain meticulous records, just the shop receipts. I don't know how Yamaha handles self maintenance documentation if a warranty issue arises. Hopefully, if you've got the right paperwork and receipts you're fine. In my case not having a trailer or place to do self maintenance forced me to an 'authorized' dealer anyway, but I do realize I could save money if I could do it myself and I know it's not that difficult to do. Oh, the boatel had no problems with me adding underwater lights, autopilot, trim tabs, etc. at the boatel. They have a big issue with fluids such as oil due to the required cleanup protocols, reporting and paperwork associated with a spill.
  17. Drives me crazy when people post this kind of stuff. Whether a boat or a car, the manufacturer has to PROVE that you caused the failure. You have zero obligation to go to a dealer for service. If you follow their published service schedule, and you used parts and materials that meet their specifications, and you have proof you did it (receipts), they cannot refuse warranty repairs. If they try, you can sue them. I take my vehicles, and will take my boat, to authorized repair shops IF it is work that I cannot do. I can do oil changes, lower case oil change, gas filter, winterization, etc. all myself. https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance
  18. I agree do it yourself, ....But if the motor decides to blow a rod or spin a bearing, my question is will Yamaha step up to the plate...hate to be in that position if not... okay to sue, .lawyer fees/ hassel to go through I bet.
  19. Nice color match! I just ordered some. SPate: Thank you for the info. The prop on there currently is a Power Tech stainless 13.25 X 15. I also have the original aluminum Yamaha 13.5 X 19. I need to get some hours on the boat to see how she does before I decide on battery size and placement. I’m encouraged you get 10 hours use out of a pair of group 27s, though I take it that is not non stop usage. Thanks
  20. Here is what I am running - I have a Minn Kota Terova 80lb thrust with a 60" shaft. The Terova is a fresh water motor as I use the boat exclusively on a fresh water river. Had no issues with the prop coming out but not really ocean conditions here even though I am on the St. Lawrence and it does get rough on occasions. It's a pretty long motor but I think the only other option is a 72" which would sit really long when stored in the down position. I fish up front when using it because that's where I fish and it serves to put more bow in the water. Can't speak to your wave conditions but if I fished this boat back home in florida on the gulf side, it would be fine with a 60" but I would go for the Riptide model as that is for salt.As far as props go, I have a Solas Saturn (new model)13.5"diameter by 15" pitch stainless prop. I turn it 6,000 to 6,100 rpm with two people, near full of gas and at sea level. With the 115 Yamaha, this is right where you want to be rpm-wise or the engine will struggle to get on plane. I would buy this prop again as it performs well and is much less than the Yamaha props. The weight of the batteries and motor will rob about 100 rpm from you so my rpm numbers are with the trolling motor and batteries. I have two group 27 batteries that will run the motor at least 10 hours. If you want to be weight conscious you can go for the AGM versus the wet batteries as they produce more power in a smaller package. Hope that helps.
  21. ..I agree, They are Difficult to communicate with...I had some part number questions awhile back, beyond the dealer help.
  22. The Spectrum Color repair kit was a color match on the hull of our 2013 R180... Good luck!
  23. I saw that when checking out gel coat patches. The product is for 2002-2011 model year Robalos. Mine is a 2013. Is the color still the same? Has anyone put something like this tackle center below in their consoles? Were you able to match colors? Thanks
  24. For repairing rod holder screw holes: Link to Robalo Arctic White gel coat patch paste repair kit on iboat.com, Good luck!
  25. There's probably room under the port side jump seat for a second engine battery. If that second battery is for emergency starting only, you could come off the 12V battery of your trolling battery back, and go through a Blue Sea dual circuit battery switch for emergency starting. That's what I did on my Seaark to conserve weight. ,With the trolling batteries under the console, it would be easy to mount a switch and run the cables back to the start battery. If you really want the security of a second starting battery, I would look at putting one on each side. At any rate, and as mentioned above, the 115 is not a power house and if you add another battery in the back and have people in the jump seats, it's going to struggle so I would get as much weight as possible mid-ship. Right now our 180 is only a play boat for kneeboarding and tubing, but the wife is making noise about wanting to rig it out for fishing so I may be facing these same issues in the near future.
  26. Thanks for the reply. A few questions: What length shaft is your trolling motor? Does its prop ever come out of the water in chop? You fishing fresh or saltwater? What main engine prop are you running, and what RPM are you getting at WOT? I bought this boat in Nevada, where everything is high and hot, so I am probably underpropped on the ocean. Thanks again
  27. I have a 2016 R180 with a 80lb thrust Minn Kota mounted on the front. Also switched to a dual engine battery setup but the dealer installed the new switch and wiring as part of the deal so I cant help you with that. Does look like a straight swap out. The two engine batteries are on the starboard side while the two group 37 trolling batteries on both on the port side, both accessible from the rear seat areas. It does make the boat a little more butt heavy. Trim tabs would be a nice addition but are not absolutely necessary. The weight of the trolling motor on the bow partially offsets the additional weight in the back but not entirely. You can compensate by moving people and gear around. The 115 engine is not a brute so it will cost you 1 mph or so on the top end to add the additional weight. Other than that, the boat handles it pretty well.
  28. That inlet probably feeds the live well, so constantly opening and closing it would be a PITA.
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