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  1. Today
  2. wayne connors

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    It can be removed but it sticks pretty good. Try it on a place to see how hard it is to remove.
  3. One other thing about your R222. Be very careful cleaning the raised Hook decal on the sides of the boat. Use a soft bristle brush. The pointy ends of the decal will peel back. The point is so thin, that there is not much adhesive surface. I was wiping the sides on the boat with a towel and the threads of the towel got caught up on the points. Enjoy the boat. I ran mine for three hours yesterday. Runs nice.
  4. Yesterday
  5. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    That's a good idea. Do you know if this type of silicon would be easy to get off if I needed to remove it?
  6. Ba Fisher and OGR thanks for your contributions to the forum, you have helped me and provided support that I haven't found with dealers or corporate. No kidding but if Robalo hired you guys for tech support it would be a huge improvement, got my vote heck I might even get a finders fee...just kidding. Thanks Guys
  7. crashl

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    The drain tube is ingenious
  8. Last week
  9. ba_fisher

    R180 bilge pump ( 2016 ) -- torture to replace

    If you have steady hands, and you're sure the pump needs to be replaced, you can use a long drill bit to break off the white part of the clip, take the pomp body out, and swap in an identical part. Good luck!
  10. ba_fisher

    R180 bilge pump ( 2016 ) -- torture to replace

    This is how my 2018 R200's bilge pump looks: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jc6ZgXUnPfUvn74c9 It shows the same split loom tubing you mentioned. Maybe you can unscrew the pump using very long screw drivers? I see some at Home Depot that are 4ft or so long. Screwing them back on might take some finesse, though. If everything fails, maybe cutting the inspector port bigger for easier access, and later replace it with a bigger hatch .... but you probably don't want to stand on this part of the boat afterwards.
  11. 2016 R180 bilge pump dead -- stunningly difficult to access to replace. Wiring is in split loom tubing, which is nice, but tubing is zip-tied multiple places out of reach of normal human beings. There is supposedly a plug connector in there somewhere, still searching. If you have done this successfully let me know. Parts identification (which someone kindly uploaded for the 2016 R180) does not show a pix of this run, and older parts guides show a slightly different layout (I can see the connector in question on the older boats but I think 2016 is different). These boats come with Rule bilge pumps and float switches -- in my experience with other boats these usually die after a couple of years so planning for replacement should be part of the build. I think I need to borrow an endoscope from my gastroenterologist to find the stuff down there. Thanks for any input... Chas
  12. The GPS antenna I installed has a heading sensor, so when I stop the boat, my fish finder still knows where the boat is pointed to. It also has better precision than the built-in GPS in my fish finder.
  13. I was done yesterday. Zip ties worked the best. I pulled the NMEA cable out of the tube with two zip ties -- one at the notch at the bottom of the "head" of the cable, so I could easily jiggle the cable up and down. Then I tied another zip tie close to the top of the head to guide it out of the small hole. I had tried to use my finger to pull it out for 15 minutes with no success. With the two zip ties it took just 1 minute. I did bring my picker tool and snake camera to the dock, but I forgot to charge the snake camera so I couldn't use them. Together they might have been able to pick the fishing line out, but would have been much more work than using the zip tie. They would not have helped with getting the cable out of the hole.
  14. Update us on what worked when you finish. Thanks
  15. wayne connors

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    What do you think of using clear silicone RTV instead of the weather stripping. A bead of RTV 1/4” or a little less thick should do the trick. What do you think?
  16. wayne connors

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    Great idea I too have been trying to solve the same problem. I never thought about copper tubing with a flare. My next project as soon as my boat comes out of the water next week. Can you add a picture of the finished installation? Thanks again.
  17. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    I lined the rim of the seat "hole" using this weather stripping: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073CHNZ9P/ It doesn't stick very well, so water probably will seep through the glue side. When I go fishing over the weekend I will tape the weather stripping down using duck tape. It won't look good, but I don't think anybody worries about the look there ....
  18. ba_fisher

    R180/R200 jump seat drain pipe

    The jump seats on the R180 and R200 have a poor design that pools rain water behind the seat back. The rain water eventually gets dumped over the battery and builds up in the bilge. If the boat is moored, the rain water will eventually flow up into the console and leave a wet floor there. I couldn't find a small through-hull that can be mounted flush to the surface, so I ended up using a 3/8" copper pipe https://www.zoro.com/mueller-industries-type-l-hard-length-14-inx-2ft-lh02002/i/G2359892/ and flared it using this flaring tool (which is not very good so I don't recommend it): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MEB65K/ I then drilled a 3/8 inch hole and countersunk it to match the flare. The hole is a little tight, so I hammered the pipe down (using the rubber end of a screw driver). That also ensures the pipe won't pop up on its own. I also applied 3M 5300 sealant below the flare, but I forgot to take a photo of the final look. It looks good and flush. Believe me :-) I use a 3/8" ID drain tube to connect the copper pipe down to the existing drain tube of the seat's cup holder.
  19. ba_fisher

    R200 Jump Seat Drain

    How to install a drain pipe for rain water that pools behind R200's jump seats.
  20. ba_fisher

    Care and Cleaning of Canvas

    I went to the dock today and snapped a couple of photos on my R200's factory console cover. It's made of Sunbrella. The instruction label says: Brush off loose dirt. Wash with a mild soap and lukewarm water solution. Rinse thoroughly. Allow to air dry.
  21. ba_fisher

    IMG_0179.jpg

    R200 factory console cover, Sunbrella canvas, cleaning instructions: "Brush off loose dirt. Wash with a mild soap and lukewarm water solution. Rinse thoroughly. Allow to air dry."
  22. ba_fisher

    IMG_0178.jpg

    R200 factory console cover, Sunbrella canvas.
  23. ba_fisher

    IMG_0177.jpg

    Using zip tie to pull rigging line through T top support poles.
  24. Dabbles your zip tie idea was great. My tube was very hard to access, and it already has 2 wires for the navigation lights. I could drop down a braided line tied to a bullet sinker, and I could feel the line with my finger, but it was impossible to get it out. So I used a zip tie to make a big loop and inserted that into the hole, dropped the sinker through the loop, and voila, I caught it! Pushing the NMEA cable up was equally hard, and the cable's "head" was so big that it couldn't come out from the upper hole. The solution -- TWO zip tie loops!
  25. fishhead

    Securing a 242 Explorer to trailer

    The bow eye strap and two transom straps is normal.
  26. Curious as to how 242 owners are securing the straps to the trailer. Obviously a bow strap, but then 2 transom straps + over the boat? Or, just a single heavy duty strap over the boat?
  27. Blue Crab

    Tow Vehicle

    I'm just ordered a new R207 with Coyote trailer. They told me that the trailer for my boat will weight 880 pounds, I'm sure it's very similar (if not identical) to your R206.
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