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  1. Yesterday
  2. FullThrottle

    R180 Autopilot Install...

    Looks good. Nice install. I don't know how I ever got along without one. Oh yeah...Hours behind the wheel, no way to troll but one or two lines by myself, etc. Hope you love yours as much as I love mine.
  3. Ronalo

    R180 Autopilot Install...

    First time powered up and everything works perfectly. 12” Raymarine display works great for eyeballs that no longer focus on small Garmin characters. The biggest challenge was replacing the transducer that was fastened in place with excessive amounts of 5200, probably by a mechanic that got blamed for a previous leaker. Best part was being able to sit in the well of the console and easily reach everything. I’m now a fan of Raynet NG (new generation), a plug-and-play bus that transmits all the data flawlessly. In the console picture, the autopilot controller is in the lower left, the pump is mounted vertically and connected to the existing manual drive wheel with tees. Not shown is the electronic compass. Open box, last-generation, Raymarine es127 Multifunction Display was $1499 and Raymarine Autopilot package was $1060.
  4. hunter6225

    R305 Swim ladder

    Has anyone who owns an r305 changed out their swim ladder. The ladder that comes installed on the boat is not that easy to get on and off of when beached. Jim
  5. Last week
  6. iklein99

    Buying used r305

    Thanks!
  7. FullThrottle

    Buying used r305

    You'll probably find more information over on http://robaloboatowners.net/forums/ Start with searching on R305 and looking at the current content. Seems your question is similar to some already asked and answered.
  8. iklein99

    Buying used r305

    So, I'm purchasing a used (2009) r305. Moving up from a 24 ft Key West. My wife and I want a cabin boat, and I want a fishing platform. What do I need to look out for with this boat? Anyone have one that loves / hates it? How do they hold up?
  9. In a way comparable to BraedentonBoater, we modified our R180's raw water plumbing last spring, inspired by Forum member Oldnertenacious' past post on adding raw-to-fresh water changeover capability to his 2016 R200. For us, it was necessary to add a bonafide washdown pump because prior to 2015, Robalo supplied the R180 with a bilge-mounted Bait Sentry pump that effectively provides pressure-less flow to the optional cockpit washdown fitting. To control the flow of raw water to the livewell and the newly added washdown pump, as well as the flow of fresh water from the livewell to the washdown pump, I constructed a manifold using three valves... In the photo below, the valve on the left is fed at the bottom by the Bait Sentry pump, the valve on the right is fed from the flow-thru port at the bottom of the Bait Sentry pump, and the middle valve is fed at the top by freshwater stored in the livewell... Good luck!
  10. Wiebkep

    242 CC Bow Cushion Filler

    Does anybody have a suggestion on where to buy a bow filler cushion for the Robalo 242 CC. I want to lay out in the sun on Non- Fishing days. I have a 2016.   Thanks PJ
  11. BradentonBoater

    Convert Raw Water System to Switchable Fresh Water Storage System

    Sorry I took so long to respond. The 2 valves are positioned in series in the port side of the bilge in the stern, mounted against the support bulkhead in my 202EX. These valves each have three ports: one common port, and two other ports that are selectable by positioning the ball valve lever. They handle water flow in both directions. That is, the common port can act either as an inlet or outlet. They are available on Amazon for about $29 each. Valve 1 is the pump inlet (suction) valve. It allows you to draw either raw water (from the seacock and strainer) or fresh water (from the bait well) to the pump input. Valve 2 allows you to either add raw water to the bait well, route raw water to the wash down, or route fresh water from the bait well to the wash down connector. To install, remove the raw water line going to the pump inlet and connect the end to port 1 of valve 1. Next, use a short piece of hose to connect the common port of valve 1 to the pump inlet. Leave the pump outlet hose that connects to a T connector in place (one end terminates at the wash down fitting and the other connects to the bait well). Then cut the hose section running between the wash down connector and the bait well fill connector and connect both ends to valve 2. The section running to the bait well connects to the common port of valve 2. The other side that goes to the bulkhead water hose fitting connects to port 2 on valve 2. Finally, connect a short piece of hose between port 2 of valve 1 and port 1 of valve 2. Secure all the hoses by adding bulkhead clamps if needed. Mount the ball valves to the bulkhead or bulkhead extension, depending on the model of your boat. Last, connect a short piece of hose with a female hose fitting to the water inlet inside the bait well after unscrewing the existing fitting. The end of this hose sits at the bottom of the bait well and serves as the fresh water suction line when connected. I added a hose sediment screen to the female hose connector to trap any particles that might be in the bait well when using fresh water. Also, replace the original overflow pipe with a 1 ½” expandable rubber stopper available from Home Depot for about $3. I found that the overflow pipe, even when screwed tightly into the drain, loosens with boat movement and lets the fresh water drain out of the boat through the rear hull fitting. The stopper prevents this. Just make certain the bait well cover closes tightly to avoid water loss from sloshing. You may have to adjust the latch stop to form a tight seal. When using the bait well with raw water, simply remove the short hose and drain plug if attached, and reinstall the original bait well fitting and overflow pipe. Then open the seacock, set valve 1 to the raw water port (port 1) and valve 2 to port 2. With the pump running, this provides suction at the common port of valve 1 and starts a flow of raw water from the seacock and raw water filter to the pump inlet (suction). The output of the pump travels to the T fitting in the raw water outflow line that goes between the hose connector and port 2 in valve 2. Since port 2 in the second valve is open, water flows to the bait well through the common port on valve 2 that is connected to the bait well inlet, and to the wash down fitting, the same as originally rigged. To use the bait well to store fresh water, unscrew the original fitting and overflow pipe inside the bait well and attach your short hose with the female coupler and cap the drain with the rubber stopper. Fill the tank with fresh water and open the valve inside the bait well. Turn valve 1 to the fresh water port (port 2) and valve 2 to port 1. With the pump on, this creates suction in the bait well inlet line that now lies in the bottom of the tank. The water flows through the common port of valve 2, through port 1 on valve 2 to port 2 on valve 1, then through the common line of valve 1 to the inlet (suction side) of the pump. The fresh water exits the pump to the T connector in the hose running between the wash down connector and port 2 of valve 2. Because port 2 on valve 2 is closed, the line pressurizes, and fresh water is available by connecting a water hose to the bulkhead outlet. An alternative would be to use a number of small in-line, 2 port valves to rig the same system. However, it would be more complicated to operate.
  12. BoatMedic

    Convert Raw Water System to Switchable Fresh Water Storage System

    I'd also love to see some pictures and details.
  13. AO

    2018 r207 flooring

    Nope, that sounds like a good way for someone to trip. I wouldn't drive it off the lot until the dealer fixes it to your satisfaction.
  14. LawrenceG

    2018 r207 flooring

    I have a deposit on 2018 R207. I noticed that the ski locker hatch, at the aft is below the deck about 1 " when it is closed. Is this normal?
  15. Brandtl

    R200 Questions

    I really appreciate that! Another member also talked to me PM about adding a kicker to his 222. It's nice to find a forum this helpful. And RickR160 is correct, Yamaha's website does show that their variable switch is for motors 25-115 hp.
  16. JT R200

    R200 Questions

    I have 2018 R200 that I added Yamaha 9.9. Put a simple bracket off back of boat to mount. Works great. I will post photos when I pick up from storage within the next couple of weeks.
  17. Blue Crab

    Mooring cover for R207.

    Thanks, I ended up buying the factory cover from someone on Facebook. I noticed the exact same issue with the zippers and the ski bar.
  18. TOM DOGFISH

    Mooring cover for R207.

    I have the factory cover. It fits well except for around the ski bar. There are zippers around the cut outs with Velcro flaps to cover the zippers. You can't zip it up and the flaps are not positioned to well. it's really the only flaw with the factory cover.
  19. RickR160

    R200 Questions

    A Yamaha can be equipped with a variable rpm trolling switch. MAR-VTSSW-00-KT. 50 rpm adjustments. It may not be for engines above the 115 though, not sure.
  20. Pnoman

    R200 Questions

    Mercury sounds like the only logical option, Ill be taking possession of my R200 with a 200 Mer. April 10 so I cant comment on the troll control but I’ve heard positive reviews, Maybe someone will chime in who has one. Good luck!
  21. Brandtl

    R200 Questions

    The Mercury is a great idea, and I will check into that more. I didn't realize it could be ordered with anything other than Yamaha. I searched high and low to find instances where someone mounted a kicker motor. The best setup I could find was someone who did it on a 180, and they had to cut access into the top of the swim deck to get to the transom. Doesn't sound appealing. I considered solar panels, but the amperage requirements make them somewhat impractical. They definitely help but, if it takes even 8 hours to recharge batteries with 120ac it gets hard to get enough panel area.
  22. Steve19

    Trolling motors

    That was one of my thought, staying 24 volts. Couldn't find one with Moor Guideand had to Oder the Minn Kota. I'm in Cape Coral so the Rhodan was a pan easy pick up in Sarasota Good luck!
  23. Pnoman

    R200 Questions

    If you with Mercury they have “troll control” which you can idle right down, In saying that have you considered solar panels with an inverter to charge your batteries?
  24. Brandtl

    R200 Questions

    I’m looking hard at a new R200. For a part of the year I will be trolling for salmon and lake trout, so I’m trying to get an idea of how slow I can get with the main outboard. Do any current owners have a good idea of how slow than can get with a 150 hp? I think adding a kicker motor would be difficult to say the least. Where I fish I don’t have access to 120 ac if we are camping, sometimes for 3 or 4 days, so charging deep cells gets tricky. Trying to figure out options at this point. Thanks in advance.
  25. aandrews109

    Trolling motors

    Thanks Steve, I had actually looked at the Rhodans but didn't know anything about them. I'm up in the Panhandle and my closest dealer is in Pensacola, but I haven't had a chance to see one yet. Definitely want a 72" shift but don't want to go to 36 volts.
  26. fishypete

    T Top/Tabs on R180 Help

    I have both Ttop and tabs from the factory. Can’t comment on the Ttop as she’s wrapped up but install the tabs. They make a world of difference. Two different salesmen tried to talk me out of them. I’m glad I didn’t listen.
  27. haz

    1986 robalo 2120

    If you have not already, you may also want to join the other Robalo owners' discussion site, where a large community of earlier-model-year Robalo boat owners participate and post your question on its Center Console forum, where 2120 owners are active. Good luck!
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